Category: Uncategorized

Arborists are trained in seminars and texts that rot in trees is bad. Wood decay can constitute a “hazardous condition” which when accompanied by the tree being in a place that has a target and the tree is large, can create a “hazardous tree”. The notion of hazardous trees is a uniquely human construct that has little to do with the ecology of trees, the variety of organisms that utilizes large declining trees, and does not consider what the various defects in trees may be contributing to the environment or forest around that tree in terms of organism habitat.  Humans require that trees living near them must perform appropriately otherwise get out the chain saw and make them comply.   In the last decade tree care for birds and  wildlife has become a popular training subject for arborists in the western United States.  In Europe researchers have been popularizing the notion that large trees can become centers of biodiversity because they have many microhabitats that support numerous organisms not found on younger trees.  This concept is abbreviated TreM or Tree related Microhabitat.

As trees mature and then decline, they accumulate deadwood, cavities, epiphytic organisms, excrescences, exudates, fungal decay organisms, and even accumulates of soil or pockets of water in branch crotches. Arboriculture practice tends to regard tree defects as having no value, thus we remove dead wood, cut down trees with cavities and condemn trees with wood decay sporophores. It is now accepted that the more “defects” a tree accumulates the quantity and diversity of organisms associated with that individual tree also increases. In this sense old trees become centers of biodiversity within both managed and unmanaged forests.

The health of a forest is not measured only by the quality of the wood it can produce or the number of board feet it can supply, but also by its connections to other organisms that ensure its health over time. Forests are ecosystems and require connections between organisms and diversity of organisms in order to be resilient. These organisms utilize not only living but also dying and declining trees. Ancient trees are often rich in defects and have many TreM’s.

Tree injuries such as storm damaged branches, lightning scars, frost cracks, branch failures and and other damage are all considered TreM’s. While these are functional habitat in forests they may be quickly removed from the urban forest even if they do not pose a hazard. Now that they have apparent value, perhaps we can rethink their removal where and when appropriate.

The TreM concept is derived from trees growing in forests not those in cities. TreM’s may not become a management tool for urban forestry, however there are many lessons to be learned from the TreM concept. The greater the number of microhabitats, the more organisms and connections between organisms there will be. This provides resilience even to urban ecosystems. There is strong evidence that TreM’s serve as a reservoir of organisms in forests helping to maintain their health. Using the TreM concept for non-forest trees will not change how trees are managed for many situations. Risk tolerance often trumps ecosystem services. Greater understanding of TreM’s will perhaps allow us to save trees that do not pose hazards where they would otherwise be disposed of. Some tree managers have tried to create defects in trees to enhance habitat for wildlife. This is not based in science and I do not advocate creating TreM’s for the sake of having them in trees. Fungi and other organisms find their way into trees all too easily. Until we have some science based evidence for the creation of TreM’s, I recommend against it. It’s the whole do no harm thing we have going as plant pathologists. Being aware of TreM’s and evaluating their usefulness in the urban forest is a new area of study.

In their field guide, Butler et al., 2020 describe 47 TreM’s that they further break down into 15 groups and 7 types. The field guide is available on line if you want to find out more about TreM’s. The research on TreM’s is nascent, and restricted mainly to Europe and Canada. This fall we will collect data in the Chiricahua Mountains to add to that body of research as part of the South Western Research Station’s Trees Course to be held the last week of September into early October.

References

Butler, R., T. Lachat, F. Krumm, D. Kraus, and L. Larrieu. 2020. Field guide to Tree-related Microhabitats. Descritpions and size limits for their inventory. Birmensdorf, Swiss Federal Insitute for Forest, Snow and Landscape Research WSL. 59 p. www.wsl.ch/fg-trems

Larrieu, L., Paillet, Y., Winter, S., Butler, R., Kraus, D., Krumm, F., Lachat, T., Michel, A.K., Regenery, B., and Vanderkerkhove, K. 2018 Tree related microhabitats in temperate and Mediterranean European forests: a hierarchical typology fr inventory standardization. Ecologial Indicators, 84: 194-207

In the last week, I’ve driven all the way from western Virginia, where the redbuds are blooming, to Tallahassee, FL, where red clover is everywhere. As I drove through the mountains north of Charlotte NC, I noticed some signs indicating that strong gap winds may blow down the valleys when atmospheric pressure patterns align to produce strong pressure gradients that drive the wind. I have discussed wind before in previous posts (“Who has seen the wind?” and “Does wind chill affect plants?”) so you can find the basics of what causes wind and some of the different kinds of local winds by going to those posts. In today’s article I want to share some different local names for winds and other local weather and invite you to share your own local weather names. Note that this is not a complete list, but I will provide links at the end that prove a bigger sample of all the names that are used around the world to denote different kinds of weather, especially wind.

Local weather names based on topography

Local mountains and valleys can cause a big variety in the types of winds we observe. Generally, these winds can be classified as katabatic winds blowing downhill and anabatic winds blowing uphill. The direction depends on the time of day due to heating but also to large-scale weather patterns that direct the flow of air. Local winds can also occur due to changes in the heights of the ridges so that where the ridges are low, air can spill over the mountains in the gaps between peaks. Winds blowing downslope can also accelerate as they move to lower elevations, increasing their strength. Those winds can be very strong because of the funneling effect of the terrain leading to warnings like the ones I saw on Interstate 77 in the northern North Carolina Mountains. Some of these local winds in other parts of the world are called the Viento Zonda (or Zonda wind) in Argentina, the Williwaw in the Alaskan Panhandle, Karaburan in Central Asia, Chinook wind along the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains in the USA, Mistral in France, and the Warm Braw in the Schouten Islands north of New Guinea. You can read more about each of these by looking online at Wikipedia or other sites (link below). Winds which are affected by topography can provide good sources of steady wind for wind farms.

One of the most interesting large-scale topography-driven winds is the Tehuantepecer in southern Mexico which begins in the Gulf of Mexico (after coming south across North America) as a north wind that crosses the Mexican isthmus and blows through the gap between the Mexican and Guatamalan Mountains. It is so strong that it can be felt as much as 100 miles out to sea. This happens several times a year, especially in winter when the wind is more often from the north, and is amazing to see on https://earth.nullschool.net/ when it happens. In fact, as I am writing this on Thursday (March 28, 2024) it is happening today! How cool is that?

Local weather names based on changes of air mass

Some winds are named for abrupt shifts in atmospheric temperature and humidity when air from a different source region moves in. They can be small-scale changes due to outflows from individual thunderstorms like gust fronts or can be larger-scale changes due to wind blowing an air mass with colder, hotter, or drier characteristics into the area.

Some of the winds associated with drier and dustier conditions occur near desert locations as the wind shifts to bring in air from the desert regions to replace the air that was already there. One of the most common terms for one of these is haboob, which originated in Sudan but is now used in the western U. S. (Haboob basically means “dust storm” in Arabic but sounds a lot more exotic). A haboob is associated with a wall of hot, dusty air that moves into the region from the desert, bringing low visibilities to the region (often resulting in car accidents as drivers caught unawares can be blinded by the sudden change in conditions). Other dry winds include the Khamsin in Egypt and the Red Sea region, the Scirocco in North Africa and the Mediterranean, and the Harmattan in West Africa.

Cold winds include the Blue Norther, a fast-moving cold front that moves in from the north that can send temperature plummeting by 20-30 degrees in a few minutes, the Bora in the Adriatic region, the Khazri in the north Caspian Sea, the Montreal Express in New England, and the Norte in Mexico. In the Southeast US, we have what we call the Wedge, which is a shallow layer of cold air that moves south along the eastern slope of the Appalachian Mountains under northeast flow, bringing clouds, cold weather, and the chance of ice storms to the region in spring. The Wedge is partly due to topography as well, since the cold air is so shallow that it can’t move west over the Appalachian Mountains and thus is forced down to us in parts of the Carolinas and Georgia. Hot dry winds include the Brickfielder in southern Australia, the Leveche in southern Spain, and the Diablo and Santa Ana winds in California, which are also affected by air moving down from the mountains into coastal areas of the state when high pressure dominates the Southwest.

Local winds are associated with thunderstorms

In addition to the wind names associated with topography and change of air quality there are also some names that are tied to smaller weather events like hurricanes and thunderstorms. Those include the Kalbaishakhi in India and Bangladesh, the Bayamo on Cuba’s southern coast, the Pampero in Argentina and Uruguay, the Cordonazo on the west coast of Mexico, and the Borasco in the Mediterranean. Strong winds associated with thunderstorms can cause tremendous damage to gardens, trees, and buildings and can cause problems with flights and road transportation. Since it is spring and we are entering severe weather season for a lot of the US, it’s a good reminder that it does not need to be a tornado to cause significant damage—straight-line winds can be just as severe.

Knowing your local climate is important for gardeners

Anyone who lives for a long time at a location will start to recognize the local weather and climate patterns that govern your local garden conditions. If you are really dedicated, you can even measure these variations. If you know that in certain seasons, you are more likely to experience very dry dusty air, you might consider plants that can survive those conditions with less care. If you live in an area that is subject to frequent strong local winds, you will need to plan your garden to place more wind-resistant plants where the air flow is the strongest or else construct a wind shelter to keep more sensitive plants safe. Buildings can also affect the wind flow and can cause “wind tunnels” where the air is constricted and blows faster in the narrow passage.

Note: For those of you who wonder about the title of this post, Maria (sometimes listed as Mariah) is a fictional wind popularized in “Paint Your Wagon” (Lerner and Lowe, 1951) and by the Kingston Trio (1959). The name may have originated with the 1941 book “Storm” by George R. Stewart according to my colleague Jan Null of Golden Gate Weather Services.

Sources of more local wind information

Here are some websites that have listings of additional local winds, although none of them is a complete list, I am sure.

Wikimedia (with links to most of the individual winds): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_local_winds.

GG Weather: https://ggweather.com/winds.html

U. K. Met Office: https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/learn-about/weather/types-of-weather/wind/wind-names

If you have a local name for the wind or weather in your region, please share it in the comments!

Wherever whitetail deer occur they present a challenge for gardeners. The internet offers abundant advice on this, but too often it is simplistic gardening myth such as scattering human hair or planting garlic.

Historically in deer control literature there have been occasional observations that deer hesitate to enter an area which looks too small or constrained for rapid escape. Finally, it came time to acknowledge and test this theory.

Green Island Preserve and the University of Minnesota Extension set about investigating this possibility through their Regional Sustainable Development Partnership (RSDP) program which provides support to community-benefit projects in partnership with private citizens and organizations. The test site was a 60 acre rewilded forest inside a small northern city. Deer pressure was heavy with resident herd numbers varying from 16-30 animals during the trial.

The first issue was defining a “small space” for testing the theory. In all the literature only one other trial of this concept could be found. It was conducted in Wisconsin with traditionally fenced spaces ranging from 15 ft by 15 ft to 21 ft by 21 ft feet during part of one summer. The Minnesota Green Island Preserve and RSDP trial chose 16 feet by 16 feet based upon the dimensions of manufactured, ridged cattle panels. These panels are 50 inches in height and 16 ft long and tend to be readily available at Fleet or Home stores even in suburban areas. If successful, their advantage would be very easy set-up and portability at a reasonable cost.

What was the result? Over 2 years of trial, this test demonstrated 95% success. Six micro-exclosures were established and planted within forested and forest edge locations in a zone of heavy deer pressure. During an observation period of 730 days, only one instance of deer browse occurred inside a micro-exclosure.

This success rate is more impressive because these fences are not a physical barrier to deer entry. They are strictly a psychological deterrent. This places them in much the same class as flashing lights, sound cannon, water spray, etc., but according to this study’s data, they’re actually more effective. All psychological deterrents have a failure rate dependent on application, monitoring, seasonality, rainfall, and more. But micro-exclosures show a low failure rate, without maintenance. If a deer breach does occur, the solution is simply to make the exclosure appear even smaller. This can be done by stretching rope across the center holding noticeable flagging. It can be lifted off when tending plants.

This is a highly promising discovery which merits further controlled testing by universities and professionals. The Minnesota Green Island Preserve and RSDP trial was specifically targeted to white tail deer predation while other ungulates present browse problems in other geographies. Rabbits were not addressed. However, until further and definitive research is conducted, citizen-scientist gardeners can contribute by testing versions of this method for themselves and adding their data to the general deer-control knowledge base. In using and testing micro-exclosures, gardeners will fare infinitely better than by spreading human hair, interplanting garlic, or buying “ultrasonic” gizmos.

This post was provided by Kent Scheer. Kent is a career sculptor with a side mission for reforestation and environmental compassion. He is the editor of three handbooks on sustainable agriculture resources and owner/ manager of a rewilded pine forest in northern Minnesota created for environmental education and awareness. You can contact Kent at kentscheer@outlook.com.

In the quarter century that I’ve been researching, publishing, and educating on the topic of landscape mulches, one thing has become clear: cardboard should never be used as a mulch. This viewpoint has been of great interest to gardeners; in fact, my earlier post has been the most frequently viewed post since it was published in 2015. I occasionally appended new information to the original post as needed, but the topic deserves an update.

Rather than rehashing what’s been written earlier (which can be found here, here, here, here, and here in addition to the link above), I’m providing information in a Q&A format that might be helpful:

Q: Is there research on using cardboard mulch in home landscapes?

A: Not much. To date, the only peer-reviewed research relevant to landscape soil conditions is our own work published in 2019. The abstract explains the importance of the results to landscape soil health as stated in the abstract (below):

“The orders of magnitude differences in diffusion coefficients among the mulch materials, however, could negatively impact a diverse soil environment such as those found in biologically rich landscapes with higher oxygen demands. Among the mulches tested, wood chips are a preferred method of mulching in terms of providing best gas permeability, particularly in landscape conditions.”

Q: Cardboard has been used as a mulch in agricultural production. Why doesn’t that research support using it in landscapes?

A: The goal in agricultural production is to maximize yield of an annual crop. In contrast, the goal in caring for a permanent landscape is to maintain a healthy soil ecosystem that will support plant life long term. The table below explains these differences in more detail.

Q: Okay, I understand that science doesn’t support using cardboard as a landscape mulch, but what about my vegetable garden? Isn’t the research on agricultural crops relevant there?

A: The research on agricultural production mulches is more relevant if maximizing yield is your most important goal. But your goals may include maintaining a healthy soil ecosystem, reducing the use of pesticides and fertilizers, and other criteria. Are you concerned about the established negative impacts that cardboard and other sheet mulches have on soil life? If so, then sheet mulches are not a good choice compared to chunky, three-dimensional mulches.

Q: I like reusing cardboard packaging as part of organic weed control. Isn’t that a good enough reason to use cardboard?

A: In addition to interfering with water and gas movement into the soil environment, corrugated cardboard has chemical contaminants that you really don’t want in your soil or even your compost pile. Corrugated cardboard contains environmental contaminants including dioxin and PFAs or “forever chemicals.” No gardener should want to introduce more of these widespread contaminants into their landscape or garden soils.

As I’ve been recommending for nearly a quarter century now, the very best mulch to use for treed landscapes is arborist wood chips. There is robust, peer-reviewed science establishing the benefits of arborist chip mulches in controlling weeds, enhancing growth and establishment of landscape plants, and maintaining a functional soil ecosystem. In contrast, sheet mulches such as plastic, weed fabric, and cardboard have demonstrated negative impacts on the long-term health of landscape soils. Any resource that says otherwise is not paying attention to the research-based facts.

In this blog I’ve talked several times about El Niño and La Niña and how they affect climate across the Northern Hemisphere as well as their impacts on the rest of the world. We are currently in a strong El Niño with sea surface temperatures in the Eastern Pacific Ocean (EPO) that are much warmer than the long-term average. But underneath the surface the ocean currents are starting to change and the El Niño is expected to swing quickly into the opposite phase, La Niña. That will affect us in North America but also other parts of the world since both El Niño and La Niña are linked to global atmospheric patterns. Since a La Niña Watch was just issued by NOAA this week I will be talking about the changes we can expect to see over the next few months and how those changes will affect gardens and gardeners.

Review—What are El Niño and La Niña?

El Niño and La Niña are opposite phases of a large-scale atmosphere/ocean pattern that is driven by temperatures in the EPO. The pattern affects climate in many places around the globe. It is the biggest driver of seasonal climate in the Southeast and Pacific Northwest as well as in some other countries, especially in Northern Hemisphere (NH) winter when it is usually the strongest.

In September 2023 I discussed the likely impacts of the El Niño that was growing at that time and how it would affect your winter gardens. The conditions I expected have mostly been observed, although there are some local differences that are not surprising considering that each event is unique. Northern states have been incredibly warm with little snow, while in the Southeast we have had a lot of rain and cooler (although not frigid) temperatures due to wet soils and a lot of clouds blocking the sun. California is getting hit by one atmospheric river event after another, so they are also very wet and are even seeing a lake in Death Valley. I imagine they will have quite a bloom of spring flowers when it gets warmer because of the ample moisture. What have you experienced in your area? Did my earlier column get it right?

How is this season different than a typical El Niño winter?

Even though we have had the swings of El Niño and La Niña (collectively called El Nino Southern Oscillation or ENSO) for thousands of years as evidenced by layers in ice sheets in Peru and ocean sediments, there are other changes that are not cyclical. The rise in global temperature over time is showing up as a warming trend in all seasons but especially in winter. That does not mean we don’t see other swings in climate over time because ENSO and other atmospheric cycles are still occurring, but they are superimposed on the slowly rising temperature associated with increases in greenhouse gases so the cold outbreaks aren’t quite as severe and the warm spells last longer.

This year one of the most notable things we are seeing in global climate is the unbelievable warmth in the Atlantic Ocean. Temperatures there now are at values consistent with June or July temperatures! This is the energy that will feed tropical storms later in summer (more on that in a minute). Scientists are still not sure of all of the factors that are contributing to these record-setting conditions, but they may include the eruption of Hunga Tonga, the elimination of sulfur emissions from modern cargo ships, and changes in the global ocean circulation.

In addition, in spite of one cold big outbreak this winter across the eastern United States, most areas have been warmer than normal resulting in an early spring that has brought honeysuckle leaves to my yard more than a week early. You can follow the “green wave” north and see when it gets to your area or verify that it’s already there at the National Phenology Network site. I am concerned about the possibility of having another late frost like 2023 that could impact the peach and blueberry growers in the Southeast since our average last spring frost date is early to mid-March for most of the commercial peach region. There has been enough cold weather for most of the fruit-producing plants to have reached their required number of chill hours, which means the warm weather is making them ready to bloom. While I don’t see another cold outbreak on the horizon for the next few weeks, we have had frosts in the Southeast into April before so we are not out of the woods yet.

When will La Niña begin?

Climatologists predict that El Niño will weaken through spring and we will swing back into neutral conditions by the April through June period. From there most models predict we will move into a La Niña by the June through August period. By NH fall (September through November) there is a 77% chance we will be in La Niña conditions. This has implications for the summer and especially for the Atlantic tropical season since in neutral and La Niña years the number of tropical storms that occur in the Gulf and Atlantic is higher than in El Niño years. Last year despite El Niño we had 20 named storms, much more than the average of 14 events. This was in part due to the unusually warm water. Most of those stayed over the Atlantic Ocean rather than make landfall due to the presence of a strong jet stream high in the atmosphere which disrupted the development of storms farther to the west and prevented a lot of damage to us in the United States. In spite of that, we still had Hurricane Idalia and Tropical Storm Ophelia, both of which caused a lot of damage to infrastructure and agriculture.

With La Niña fully in place by fall, there will be little to stop the development of tropical storms in the Gulf and Atlantic Ocean except for Saharan dust and unfavorable weather patterns in the United States that could at least shunt any storms away from land. Some early unofficial predictions are for 25 or more named storms to occur this year, although the official predictions are still a few weeks away.

Next winter, we can expect La Niña to control a lot of our climate. That means warmer and drier conditions across the southern part of the United States while cold and wet conditions return to the northern states. Here in the Southeast, that means soil could be pretty dry in spring 2025 leading to issues with planting although it will be easier to drive heavy equipment into the fields than I expect will happen this year.

What does all of this mean for gardeners in the United States?

Because of the recent warm conditions associated with rising temperatures and enhanced by El Niño in northern parts of the country, spring is coming early to many places. That can be a good thing if you like flowers and don’t like snow, but it does mean that your early flowers will still be susceptible to frost damage if we get another cold outbreak later in March or even into April or May for northern states. So you will need to be prepared to protect the tender plants if a frost or freeze occurs.

The end of El Niño and the eventual rise of La Niña also has implications for areas that are affected by tropical systems. This includes the Gulf and East Coasts and areas downwind of those locations but can also include parts of California and the Southwest which can see impacts from tropical systems in the EPO west of Mexico. Rainfall could be hit or miss in the late summer depending on where the storms go. You should prepare well in advance of June 1, the official start of the season, because the warm ocean water could allow tropical storms to develop in May ahead of the “official” start. That means making sure you remove damaged limbs or other objects that could become wind-borne debris, make sure you have adequate drainage for heavy rain, and keep an inventory of your belongings that could be washed or blown away in a storm. Have a family plan to keep in touch and evacuate if you need to, including pets and livestock. You can find a lot of good information on preparing for and recovering from natural disasters in this University of Georgia handbook, even if you are not in Georgia or the Southeast.

While the current warm weather makes gardeners eager to get out in their plots and get started, it’s probably too early to start in most of the country except the most southern areas. But you can dream and start planning for the warmer weather soon to come!

Over the course of this winter there have been several days when the temperature plummeted after the passage of an Arctic front as strong winds blew frigid air into parts of the United States. It can happen in other parts of the world, too. When this happens, the National Weather Service (NWS) often issues Wind Chill Warnings urging people to bundle up before they head outside into the dangerously cold weather. From time to time I am asked if plants also experience wind chill. This week let’s explore how wind does and does not affect plants.

What is wind chill?

The Oxford Dictionary defines wind chill as “the cooling effect of wind blowing on a surface”. That is partially correct as a general statement of how the wind makes you feel, but it is lacking as a scientific definition. A better one is “a quantity expressing the effective lowering of the air temperature caused by the wind, especially as affecting the rate of heat loss from an object or human body or as perceived by an exposed person.” The wind-chill index is a calculated index that tries to quantify how a strong wind can remove heat from a human or animal body. A low wind chill indicates that heat is being rapidly removed from the body, potentially resulting in the lowering of internal temperature and the chance of frostbite to extremities like fingers, toes, and noses if directly exposed to the frigid wind.

“Wind chill” is used by the NWS as a way to provide a warning message to people who might be working or playing outside to make sure they are well protected from direct contact with the wind. As a calculated index wind chill cannot be measured directly although there have been some lab experiments in temperature-controlled laboratories that have tried. The formula for calculating wind chill has been changed in the past as science has improved our understanding heat transfer by wind.

How does wind chill work?

When wind blows across a surface, it causes a transfer of energy between the wind, which is at one temperature, to or from the surface which is most likely at a different temperature. If the temperature of the wind is lower than the surface, then heat (which is just a measure of the energy of the molecules at the surface) is stripped from the surface and transferred to the wind. That lowers the energy of the surface and cools it off (note that this is different than evaporative cooling, which is cooling due to evaporation of water from a surface). The faster the wind blows, the quicker the energy is stripped away. In summer, when the ambient air temperature is high, this cooling effect from a breeze off a cooler water body like the ocean may feel pretty good. But in winter, when temperatures are already icy, it may cool off the surface (and by connection, the body beneath the surface) to dangerous levels resulting in frozen cells that are the hallmark of frostbite or hypothermia if the core body temperature is affected.

Plants do not generate internal heat and so are generally the same temperature as the air. Because of this, there is no transfer of heat energy between the air and the plants and so the plants would not experience “wind chill.” However, anything that has an internal source of energy, including humans, animals or running engines, could experience a chilling effect as heat is stripped away from the surface by the wind especially if the warm surface is exposed directly to the cold wind. That is why it is important to wear layers to provide protection from the wind when the wind chill is expected to be extreme since it keeps heat from being removed from the skin. Ranchers help protect their livestock in blizzards by creating wind breaks that reduce the wind speed and so limit the impacts of wind chill on their cattle. Newborn calves may be especially susceptible to wind chill on their ears and may be outfitted with earmuffs to protect them from frostbite.

What other impacts does wind have on plants?

Even though plants do not experience wind chill, that does not mean that there are no impacts from the wind. In addition to transferring heat, wind can also transfer moisture from the plant to the air, desiccating the plants if the humidity of the air is low. This can happen at any temperature as long as there is not much water vapor in the air, but we generally think of it happening at high temperatures because the difference between the water content of the plants is much higher than the water vapor in the air. The difference in humidity, like the difference in temperatures, leads to transfer of water out of the plant and into the air blowing over it. It’s not all bad, though–wind blowing through the plant canopy can be a good thing if it keeps humidity levels near the plant low enough to prevent the development of fungal diseases that thrive on very moist conditions, so gardeners should consider wind conditions in their garden when they determine where to place their plants and what to grow.

Winds can also cause damage to trees and garden plants. I recently read an article that indicated nearly all tree trunks break at the same wind speed of around 90 mph (42 m/s), regardless of species or size. According to the authors, “In a strong wind, a tree may break through one of three mechanisms. Uprooting can occur in rain-moistened ground, or if the tree’s roots are rotten. Alternatively, if the roots can hold, then it becomes the tree trunk that is at risk from breakage – either through torsion or, more commonly, bending.” Of course, damage to tree limbs can cause breakage at weak spots as well at lower wind speeds.

Wind also has beneficial impacts on plants. The gusty nature of wind causes variable forces on tree trunks and plant stems that increase their strength by forcing them to resist the wind. That is one reason why you might not want to stake young trees too tightly, because they need to be able to move in the wind to form strong tapered trunks. Wind that blows all the time in the same direction causes trees and plants to grow in distorted (and sometimes beautiful) ways as their shapes are formed by those constant winds. Wind also provides a way to spread pollen from one tree to another, helping to spread genetic material through a wide area for reproduction.

If you are interested in reading more about how wind affects gardens, check out my earlier blog post at https://gardenprofessors.com/who-has-seen-the-wind/.

I’ve been a gardening mythbuster for almost a quarter century. You’d think the quality of information would slowly be improving, given the increased sophistication of many gardeners regarding their information source. But every day my news feed connects me with articles that I’m sure some AI entity thinks will be enlightening. One recent story getting lots of eyeballs is entitled “The Benefits of Girdling a Tree Vs. Cutting It Down.” It makes for a good application of the CRAP analysis. While the link to the publication I’ve provided will go into more detail on CRAP analysis, all you need to know for this post is we’re going to assess Credibility, Relevance, Accuracy, and Purpose of the information.

First, let’s consider the Credibility of the source. According to HouseDigest.com, the author is “a plant mom…intrigued by nature and plant life which she exhibits by caring for and doting on her succulents.” Her college degree was in applied biochemistry, which has no substantial connection to applied plant and soil sciences. Bottom line, the author is not an expert in the science of tree care.

Let’s look at Accuracy next (we’ll get to relevance later). The author’s premise that girdling is “another great option” for tree management is grossly inaccurate. The article contains no links to any published research supporting her opinions, and demonstrates a lack of understanding woody plant physiology. The author states that girdling “would prevent erosion from occurring” in contrast to cutting the tree down which apparently removes “the tree roots acting as a protective cover for the soil.” Cutting a tree down removes its crown, but leaves the root system undisturbed. The roots stop transporting water aboveground (there’s no demand for it any longer) thought they can continue to grow as long as they have stored resources. Eventually they will die and their woody structure slowly decomposes.

Girdling the tree, on the other hand, does not prevent root uptake and transport of water through the xylem to the crown of the tree. It does prevent phloem movement of sugars and other resources from the crown to the roots. In other words, roots remain active in transporting water and nutrients but slowly starve to death without phloem-transported sugars and other resources. A good article on the topic of tree girdling goes into more physiological detail on the process that causes trees to decline “before entering an irreversible state of desiccation caused by definitive root death.”

Another possibility is that the girdled tree might send up new shoots below the girdling, leading to the formation of a new crown. Without constant vigilance in removing these new branches, the tree will survive and presumably continue to cause whatever problems that led to the original mismanagement.

The author also suggests that girdling is useful in preventing disease spread: “A sick tree would need to be killed in order to prevent the disease from spreading out to other trees and vegetation.” Or, if your trees “are hoarders by nature,” girdling renders them “incapable of taking in nutrients and being a burden to the environment.” Neither of these statements is accurate.

While the information in this article is somewhat Relevant to homeowners, it does wander into agricultural advice. We’re advised if we have “a danger tree or one that is resting on arable farmland with crops on it, it’s strongly advised that you chop it down and not girdle it. You don’t want an unpredictable girdled tree falling on your harvest, house, or worse — on someone — out of nowhere.”

At this point it’s worth noting that deliberately killing a tree by girdling also opens the property owner up to legal action should the tree fall and damage property or injure someone. This alone should be enough to dissuade property owners from taking advice from this article. And given the number of years it can take for a girdled tree to die (and eventually fall), is this really a useful process if you need to have a tree removed for some reason?

Finally, what is the Purpose of this article? It’s hard to know exactly why the author promotes girdling, and the language she uses in describing tree care is odd. Statements such as “sometimes circumstances call for trees to be put down and killed” and “trees need to be put down for all kinds of reasons” seem to equate trees with stray animals or dangerous wildlife. It creates an antagonistic situation where none exists.

Tree management, especially when it come to discussions about removal, needs to involve a certified arborist who can assess potential risks associated with leaving, as well as removing, any tree.

Like it or not, the use of AI (Artificial Intelligence) has become a part of our daily lives. While you might not use AI directly (or you don’t know that you do) it is now a common part of society, especially in the online world. Many people, sites, can companies use it to create content. It is part of the “smart” gadgets that we use at home. Map software (like Google Maps), search engines, ride share apps, and even the spam filter on your email all use AI. You’re even more likely to encounter AI on social media and even standard media these days, with it being used to write articles and text, create ads, and images.

We know that there’s no getting around it these days. You’ve probably heard stories about how AI provides incorrect information, steals content, or might help the robots overthrow humanity today. While it seems to be the wild, wild west, there are a few (voluntary) safeguards in place now to prevent the overthrow of humanity (I hope).  Where the real damage is right now is the use of AI to mislead people outright. There’s also some danger from just lazy use of AI where whoever is using it to create content just copies and pastes it verbatim without checking what it actually says.

Gardening misinformation on the internet is nothing new. Gardening misinformation before the internet is nothing new either. But the risk that AI poses is the amplification and multiplication of that information. It is now easier than ever for someone to create online content at the click of a button. And the way that AI works is it scours the internet for existing information to learn how to respond. This new(ish) generation of AI is generative, meaning that it can actually put together information to form something new. Previously, if you did an internet search you would just get a list of websites to read for information. Now AI can use those sites as source material and write the information in a new way – however you prompt it to do. Search engines like Microsoft’s Bing (the much-loathed replacement for the archaic Internet “Exploder”) now have AI built in as a feature. AI is only as smart as what it can learn on the internet, and we all know that while there is good information on the web it is also full of a lot of manure.

Identifying Artificial Gardening Information

First, how can you tell if it is AI generated?  At first glance you might not be able to tell. It is just like any writing. There are tools you can use to try to figure it out, but you’ll often find that writing from AI doesn’t have personality. It is often very dry. You can tell it to add humor or any other style to its writing, but it often misses the mark. When I asked ChatGPT (one of the common AI platforms) to add humor to something it sounded like I was trying to be cutesy, like an employee at the famous park in the swamps of Orlando run by a mouse and not my usual wit, sarcasm, and cynicism. AI often fails to see context and answers are often very black and white. Which doesn’t work in dynamic systems like gardening and the environment. AI therefore sticks a lot with generalities and doesn’t often provide a lot of specific information unless you ask for it.

As an example, I prompted ChatGPT to write “three sentences about seed starting”. Here’s what it spit out:

Nothing alarming there, but it is pretty dry and isn’t very informative. It isn’t what I would write. Now, I prompted it to rewrite those sentences, but to add “humor and wit”. This is what it vomited out:

Vomit, indeed. Though still nothing too alarming. Definitely too cute and not enough snark.

Where AI generated text falls short is that it incorporates some of that incorrect manure from the web in answers. It doesn’t know that information on the web is incorrect. A few times it told me to put rocks in the bottom of pots for drainage (something we’ve fiercely disproven time and time again).

It told me to practice companion planting (another fallacy we’ve taken on) but it never gave me a lot of details about how to do it.

I did ask it directly about biodynamic gardening, which is the pinnacle of garden misinformation. It gave an amazingly nuanced and diplomatic response, which is much closer to what I’d actually say and much nicer than what GP founder Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott would say. (Don’t tell her I said that).

So, nothing too earth shattering in text, but where I think the real risk lies is in AI generated images and videos. It is easier than ever to create images of things that aren’t possible or incorrect and pass them off as real. People often do this to drive traffic – by making wild claims that people must check out or by “rage baiting” people who just have to respond to tell people how wrong something is (it still drives engagement and earns money). 

Fake images are nothing new in the gardening world. I can’t tell you how many ads I’ve seen for magical rainbow-colored rose seeds, trees that grow 10 kinds of fruits, and more all before the advent of AI. But now it is easier than ever to create those images at the click of a button.

For an example, I turned to DALL-E, which is a common AI Image generator. I tried to think of things that wouldn’t be possible. My first prompt was “monarch butterfly on a snow-covered flower”. Something that isn’t possible, but that someone might create to make a social media post about something amazing or miraculous that people have to see to believe.

The results look realistic(is) enough, though improbable. But you’d have to know that to not believe it.

The second test, not so much: “realistic looking tree that has 15 different types of fruits and veggies growing on it”. I had to add the “realistic” because the first results were cartoon-y. It didn’t help much. So, I guess my magical 15 fruit and veggie tree won’t be coming to an online scam shop any time soon.

So, I moved on and created “a grape vine covered with scary looking bugs”.

At first glance, the result can look terrifying. But if you inspect it closely, you’ll see that those bugs have all kinds of legs coming from all over their bodies. Scary, yes, but realistic – no. But could someone do something like this to scare people about an invading insect? Absolutely!

Cutting through the Artificial CRAP

GP Founder Dr. Linda C-S has written about using the CRAP test to identify if a source of information is trustworthy. She used it to talk about Jerry Baker, the self-appointed “America’s Master Gardener” who peddled misinformation and garden snake-oil for decades through books and tv shows to earn big bucks. The same principles can be applied now to digital content created by AI to help figure out if the information is reliable. Here are the steps:

C = credibility. What are the credentials of the person or organization presenting the information? Are they actual experts? Or is it a random account that doesn’t have ties to a credible source? Does the source have academic training, or even practical knowledge?

R = relevant. Is the information relevant for home gardeners? Or does it try to use information other than home gardening, like production agriculture, to answer the questions. For AI, especially images, I could also say that R= realistic. Is it something that could actually be true, or is it a monarch butterfly covered in snow?

A = accuracy. This could lend itself to the realistic assertion, but I see this as more in accuracy of the source of information. Does it site sources, like journal articles, extension publications, USDA reports, etc.? And does the information follow along with trusted information from other sources?

P = purpose. Why is someone presenting this information? In the Jerry Baker example, he was raking in money with books, TV shows, and product promotions. But what benefit does someone get from posting incorrect info on the web? Also, money. Whether you give them a dime, most social media sites and websites generate income by the number of clicks or viewers they have. How do you think people get rich and famous from TikTok? People aren’t paying them to watch them, but they generate income from engagement and interaction. So, creating content that is fanciful to get people to check it out, or even wrong for people to interact with it to rail against it, creates income.

Is all AI bad?

Not necessarily. I mean, the technology is applied in so many ways to solve so many problems. Sure, there is a risk and people do misuse it. But AI can be a powerful and useful tool when used appropriately, when information is checked, and when it isn’t copied and pasted directly. For example. Over most of 2023 I wrote a series of GP articles about plant diseases. No, I didn’t have AI write the article. That would have been wrong. But I did ask my friend ChatGPT to create lists of common diseases for each type of disease to write about. Instead of me having to dig through social media to see what people were asking about, the platform searched to see what the most common diseases that people talked or asked about were, or which ones were most likely to show up on websites. But I took that list, added to it, subtracted from it, and then wrote the article myself. But the more unethical (and lazy) users of AI just copy what it says verbatim without even reading or editing for accuracy. Or even have automated systems that just crank out AI-generated content with no oversight.

In the end, AI isn’t going away. So as savvy gardeners we just have to know what to look for to “spot the bot”.  And always be ready with a shovel to scoop away the CRAP.

January is here with its resolutions, cold long nights and not that warm days. Winter is a season of rest and survival. The cats and horses have long furry coats, the resident song birds eagerly clean out the feeder every day and the garden beckons. For me Winter is a special season when I can do a lot of fruit tree pruning, especially enjoyed with my daughter. Father-daughter pruning bonding is not to be missed if it’s an option for you. Gardens are tuned to winter as period of rest but the promise of longer days that will initiate the changes that happen in Spring will soon be upon us. In this post I’ll reflect on how plants survive winter and what we can do to help them.

Winter is actually a very dry time of the year in many places and the winter cold that freezes soil leads to dehydration. Plants installed just before winter will not emerge in spring alive w/o moisture in their systems. Mulch is an essential and natural part of winterization for many North American temperate plants. Protecting the root ball of a newly planted perennial is a must do for winter survival. In nature this is accommodated by the deciduous habit of many trees and shrubs, falling leaves are a big part of winterization. In our gardens we can do this with mulch.

Deciduosity

I know deciduosity is not often used but I like to use unusual words so here we go. The deciduous habits of many north American temperate trees enable them and other plants to survive cold, dry, freezing winters. Environmental cues (photoperiod and cooling temperatures) signal trees to drop their leaves (Fadon et al., 2020). Cold temperatures are also required by temperate perennials to invigorate buds and make starch into soluble sugars for strong spring growth. Deciduosity also leads to abundant mulch on the forest (or garden) floor. This protects soil and surface root systems, seeds, perennial herbaceous plants and bulbs and provides an insulating layer under snow, if snow is a thing where you are. When warm temps arrive in Spring the leaves quickly break down as growth under them emerges.

Solutes

Deciduosity brings certain challenges to woody perennials that donate their canopy to the soil each year. Trees in spring have no photosynthetic organs to supply the energy of growth. That energy has to be stored in the wood and roots as carbohydrates, mostly as starch, at the end of the growing season and before leaf fall. In spring at the end of dormancy when buds grow, these stored carbohydrates convert to soluble sugars and fuel the rebirth of a a new canopy. Having all that stored sugar in cells throughout the plant also reduces the freezing point of water in the cells so that subzero temperatures do not lead to ice crystal formation (and cell death) of the dormant plant.

Seeds

Another way plants survive Winter is by forming seeds. The strategy of annual plants is to “go to sleep” as seeds and “wake up” by germinating. To ensure that seeds don’t germinate too early, they often have inhibitors that need to be washed away by water (Spring thaw), burned by fire (usually summer time), or by scarification (tumbling in the creek etc). Many seeds germinate better after a cold winter than if they were sown without cold chilling. Not all seeds will germinate at the same time as inhibitors delay germination. This ensures that conditions will be right for some of the seeds and thus the species will survive, even thrive in the right place.

Roots

While the above ground part of gardens can be in a dormant state in January, the situation underground is different. Roots respire (break down sugars to get energy for growth) during winter and may grow continuously depending on climate, depth and soil coverage conditions. Roots, just like buds, utilize stored carbohydrates to fuel their growth. If temperatures remain more moderate under the soil they can continue to respire well into winter months. Soils freeze when they lack snow cover or mulch, Reinmann and Templer (2016) propose that roots in frozen soils are less active. Leaf mulches help protect soils from hard freezes.

Am I crazy or What?

I know that a leaf dump on the garden every year is not what many gardeners want to deal with. That is what leaf blowers are for right? Some municipalities even have line items in their budget for disposing of fallen leaves which are some of the most disposed of green waste. Leaves that accumulate on hardscape can be a pollution source accounting for up to 80% of phosphorus pollution in one study (Bratt et al., 2017). It’s best to utilize leaves around perennials and keep them away from streets, gutters and sidewalks.
Trees evolved to drop their leaves on the ground and for them to stay there. Finding ways to accommodate this in gardens will lead to a healthier garden and less waste in landfills. Leaves can be mown on turf areas and the biomass will be incorporated into the turf sward (Nektarios et al., 1999) without loss of turfgrass quality. In gardens they can become part of the surface mulch. If you are really crazy, you can grind them in a shredder to make really high quality micro mulch to be used around certain plants or vegetables (we do this with coast live oak leaves of which we have an abundance in California). Stavi, (2020) encourages us to think of fallen leaves as a resource not a waste product. Your garden will benefit.

For more information on leaves please see the other blogs at this site:

• https://gardenprofessors.com/noraking/
  
• https://gardenprofessors.com/leaves-for-lawn-fertilizer/
  
• https://gardenprofessors.com/one-trees-leaves-over-400-kinds-of-bacteria/

References

A. R. Bratt, J.C. Finlay, S. E. Hobbie, B. D. Janke, A. C. Worm, and K.L. Kemmitt 2017. Contribution of Leaf Litter to Nutrient Export during Winter Months in an Urban Residential Watershed. Environ. Sci. & Technol. 6: 3138-3147
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28215078/

Fadon, E. E. Fernandez, H. Behn, and E. Luedeling. 2020. A conceptual Framework for Winter Dormancy in Deciduous trees. Agronomy 10(2), 241; https://doi.org/10.3390/agronomy10020241

P. Nektarios, A.M. Petrovic and D. Sender 1999. Tree Leaf Deposition Effects on Kentucky Bluegrass (Poa pratenses L.), J. of Turfgrass Man., 3:(1) 69-74. DOI: 10.1300/J099v03n01_06

Reinmann AB, Templer PH. 2016. Reduced winter snowpack and greater soil frost reduce live root biomass and stimulate radial growth and stem respiration of red maple (Acer rubrum) trees in a mixed-hardwood forest. Ecosystems. 19:129- 141.
https://www.jstor.org/stable/48719251

Stavi, I. 2020. On-Site Use of Plant Litter and Yard Waste as Mulch in Gardening and Landscaping Systems. Sustainability 12(18), 7521; https://doi.org/10.3390/su12187521