The Dirty Truth Behind the “Dirty Dozen”

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By: Abi Saeed

Pesticide residues and risk assessments have been a major topic of interest and inquiry for me for over a decade, and something that I wanted to write about on the Blog for quite some time. Over the past couple of months, I have had several inquiries from people regarding the “Dirty Dozen” list, so I thought this was the perfect time to organize the evidence-based data on this topic. To see a prior post on this topic, you should also check out Jeff Gillman’s post on the Dirty Dozen from 2010 and a follow up post from 2011.

Before diving too deeply, I wanted to acknowledge some of the articles and resources that I leaned heavily on while putting this post together. These include an excellent article by University of California Davis Extension Food Toxicologist Dr. Carl Winter on pesticidefacts.org, and an article authored by multiple experts from University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture Research & Extension (Dr. Amanda McWhirt, Dr. Jackie Lee, and Ples Spradley). Since both of these articles are over 5 years old, I have updated some of the information in my post to reflect any changes in the science and methodology since the time their articles were published. I also want to acknowledge that much of the regulatory information that I will be sharing within this post will pertain to agriculture in the United States, and for more detailed information on this topic pertaining to other countries, I strongly encourage you to seek out evidence-based resources and/or reach out to knowledgeable experts.

What is the ‘Dirty Dozen’

Aside from being a great World War II film from the late 1960’s, the term ‘Dirty Dozen’ also refers to a consumer-focused publication put together by an environmental advocacy group based in the United States. The Dirty Dozen is a list of 12 produce items (fruits and veggies) that allegedly contain the highest pesticide residue levels (dubbing them to be the ‘dirtiest’). This list is developed annually by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) with rankings that are based on United States Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Pesticide Data Program (PDP) report. Although this sounds important and valuable to share with consumers, the information contained in these lists is derived through problematic methodology, disseminated using a lack of complete and evidence-based data, and results in unnecessary fear and uncertainty surrounding the consumption of fruits and vegetables that can have significant negative ramifications for growers and consumers alike.

The EWG’s “Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides in Produce” deters people from buying conventionally grown produce on the “Dirty Dozen” list, encouraging them to only purchase organic versions of these items. This annual guide also contains a “Clean Fifteen” list which includes produce items with the “lowest amounts of pesticide residues”. Neither list goes into detail regarding what these residues actually are, and whether they are even harmful to the consumer, and are therefore continually challenged by many scientists as lacking in scientific credibility.

The 2025 Dirty Dozen list is as follows:

  1. Spinach
  2. Strawberries
  3. Kale, Collard, and Mustard Greens
  4. Grapes
  5. Peaches
  6. Cherries
  7. Nectarines
  8. Pears
  9. Apples
  10. Blackberries
  11. Blueberries
  12. Potatoes
Recently harvested strawberries. Photo: Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org

EWG’s Dirty Dozen and Clean Fifteen methodology

Prior to 2025 EWG’s Dirty Dozen list was formulated primarily using percentages of samples with detectible pesticides and the number and amount of pesticides detected (with absolutely no information regarding the relative toxicity of these pesticides). As of this year, they have included the metric “overall toxicity of pesticides on a crop” as part of their screening criteria. Although this is a step in the right direction, it is still arguably incomplete information to share with consumers (especially since the most important component, whether these residue amounts are actually harmful to consumers, is still not addressed by any of their metrics, nor clearly communicated in their publications and marketing). This glaring omission is a big red flag in the credibility of this publication, and one of the main reasons why I have such a problem with it. As many of you avid Garden Professors Blog readers know from the many great science-based posts that have been shared (including Linda’s article on Recognizing Bad Science), we need to look carefully at the information being shared, regardless of the source, and make sure that it is evidence-based, credible, and complete.

Understanding Pesticide Safety

I want to caveat this section by stating that this is covering the science pertaining to pesticides and human health based on the research we have on this topic to date (which is subject to change as more evidence-based information comes to light). The scope of this Blog post does not cover environmental/ecological/economic/etc. impacts of pesticides in general nor the overarching impacts of various types of agriculture and food production systems (both of these are very complex topics which will require much more time and research to cover).

Although the term ‘pesticide’ is synonymously used with insecticides by many, pesticides are actually a broad category that includes all substances used to control or eliminate pests (including weeds, arthropods, vertebrate pests, pathogens, etc.). Therefore herbicides, insecticides, miticides, rodenticides, fungicides, bactericides, etc. all fall within the category of ‘pesticides’. Humans have been using ‘pesticides’ for thousands of years, though much of the innovation in pesticides (especially synthetic formulations) has occurred over the past 100 years. We have also greatly expanded our understanding and implementation of safety protocols and consideration for human and environmental health especially over the past 50 years (since Rachel Carson’s ‘Silent Spring’ and the formation of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in 1970). Thankfully we have come a long way from the ‘DDT is good for ME-E-E’ era (and still have quite a long way to go). Although we are not perfect, pesticides in general are continuing to become safer and more effective, and products with higher toxicity and non-target effects are continually being phased out in support of better chemistries with fewer human health and environmental impacts (though the latter has much more knowledge gaps than the former, and we still have a LOT more work to do on this front). As we learn more about these products with scientific studies, we continue to update our protocols pertaining to them, though there are still knowledge gaps which continue to be explored by researchers. As Extension and IPM (Integrated Pest Management) professionals, we continue to educate people on the importance of pesticide safety, and urge people to think of the environmental impacts of these products, using them only after other IPM strategies (such as cultural, mechanical, and biological controls) have been unsuccessful. Anyone who uses pesticide products (whether Restricted Use Pesticides applied by Certified Pesticide Applicators and those under their direct supervision, or readily available general use pesticides such as Neem Oil, Insecticidal Soaps, etc.) should do so responsibly and in accordance with the label (the label is the LAW!), only when needed, and minimize negative environmental impacts when possible. The history of pesticides and formation of current regulatory protocols is a fascinating topic that I encourage all of you to read up on if you are interested (and may be an interesting topic for a Blog post in the future).

Home garden pesticides on a retail shelf from 1997. Photo: Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org

Now that we have covered pesticide basics, let’s get into pesticides and food safety in Organic and Conventional agriculture. First and foremost, if you are purchasing organic produce, that does not mean it is pesticide-free. In the United States, Certified Organic produce refers to food items that are grown utilizing a specific set of principles governed by the National Organic Program. Furthermore, there could be several conventional operations that still follow some of these principles, though may not be Certified Organic. An organic pesticide is basically a pesticide that is approved by the USDA for use in organic agriculture. Although pesticides used in organic agriculture are usually naturally derived, there are also synthetic pesticides that meet the criteria and are allowed in organic agriculture (just as there may be organic pesticides used in conventional agriculture). All pesticides utilized in the U.S. (with the exception of minimum risk pesticides) are registered with and regulated by the EPA. Any of the aforementioned pesticides that are used and sold within the U.S. have rigorous testing surrounding their safety for humans (and maximum allowable concentrations which are set at levels significantly below [10-1000 times lower] those that caused no adverse effects during testing), labeled according to these appropriate evidence-based safety guidelines, and off-label use is prohibited, routinely investigated, and enforced. Regardless of organic/conventional designation: just because something is naturally derived does not mean that it is safer than synthetically derived products. There are many natural substances that are extremely toxic (eg. Botulinum toxin, Ricin, Cyanide, Arsenic, Asbestos, etc.) and many synthetic ones that are relatively benign in comparison. In summary: Organic does not mean pesticide free, and natural/naturally derived does not mean safe.  

For any of us that have taken a toxicology class, one of the most memorable take home messages was “The dose makes the poison”. Credited to a Swiss physician named Paracelsus in 1538, this statement applies to any chemicals (including water, salt, oxygen, caffeine, Aspirin, etc.) that are consumed or absorbed by us, forming the foundation of health and safety guidelines that determine the maximum allowable concentrations (tolerance levels) of these substances in our food, water, and the environment.

One of the most useful and illuminating courses I have ever taken in my career was Environmental Risk Assessment, which covered important topics including toxicology, pesticide risks, and invasive species (among other concepts). This course also detailed how Risk Assessments are conducted, the rigorous regulatory processes and evaluations required before products are even available for use, and the evidence-based tools used to determine whether a substance is hazardous and at what level (dose). A great summary of the Risk Analyses pertaining to pesticides and food safety have been summarized by Alejandro Fernández, Agronomist and Director of Hygiene and Safety of Products of Plant Origin SENASA (Argentine Food Safety and Quality Service), on the Pesticide Facts website (link in resources). These Risk Assessments and Analyses are the foundation of how we go about making determinations regarding any substances that we may be exposed to (including food and medicine).

The Issues with the ‘Dirty Dozen’

One of the biggest issues with the Dirty Dozen list is the fact that they do not communicate what having the highest (and lowest) pesticide residue levels even means. They do not conduct an accurate Risk Assessment to be able to support their message for avoiding conventional produce on this list. Although they do talk about the hazards (substances that have a potential to cause harm to us), they omit the crucial component of actual risk (likelihood of that substance causing harm to us), which incorporates another critical component of Risk Assessments: Exposure (how much of the hazard we are exposed to over a given period of time). If we looked at actual risk from the residues (incorporating hazard and exposure) we would find that the residues found on these produce items on the Dirty Dozen list are extremely low, and far below the threshold of having any risk associated with them, especially if we account for exposure (how many we consume on a daily basis, and over an extended period of time). A peer-reviewed Risk Assessment on pesticide residues published in the Journal of Toxicology by Winter and Katz (2011) in response to EWG’s 2010 Dirty Dozen list found just that (link in resources). Their conclusions were: (1) exposures to commonly detected pesticides in the 12 Dirty Dozen commodities had negligible risks for consumers, (2) substituting organic commodities for these conventionally grown ones did not result in any significant reduction of risk, (3) the EWG methodology for determining risk of these 12 products lacks scientific credibility (Winter and Katz, 2011).

Based on this cool pesticide residue calculator (link in resources), a woman of average height and weight could consume 774 servings of spinach or 453 servings of strawberries (the #1 and #2 produce items on the Dirty Dozen list) in a day without any effects. This calculator utilizes the highest possible amount of pesticide residue recorded by the USDA in these produce items, and not the average amount. Now I don’t know about you, but I would personally struggle to consume even 10 cups of strawberries in a day (every day), let alone over 450 cups. This is a great illustration of how dose/risk works, and why these produce items are considered safe for human consumption in conventional agriculture.

Pesticide residue calculator results. https://www.safefruitsandveggies.com/pesticide-residue-calculator/

In summary: the EWG fails to mention that these residue levels are still safe, and far below the thresholds that can begin to have an impact on the consumer. This can have negative ramifications for farmers that grow the produce on these lists, especially if they grow conventionally as opposed to organically. Concerns that people may opt to avoid conventionally grown produce, or avoid those specific produce items altogether is an added hurdle for growers to worry about. Both conventional and organic farmers care about what they produce, and also want our food to be safe (for their families and ours). Our regulatory processes further monitor this safety in both conventional and organic production systems, and as the science is updated, so are these processes. Although many lack access to this, if you have access: reach out to local growers and get to know what their practices are to get a better understanding, and support local farmers when possible.  

Furthermore, marketing and messaging like EWG’s Dirty Dozen list discourages people from consuming certain produce, and with only 1 in 10 Americans eating enough fruits and vegetables in their diet, the cons far outweigh the pros for this messaging. An article from the Alliance of Food and Farming details some of these negative impacts (see Resources). This type of fear-mongering disproportionately impacts consumers in lower income brackets, and those that lack access to certain produce. A 2016 consumer survey showed 15% of lower income shoppers surveyed would opt to eat less fruits and vegetables after hearing about the ‘Dirty Dozen’ (Huang et al., 2016).

The take home message should be: the produce that you purchase, whether conventional or organic, is safe to be consumed (and backed by rigorous testing that determines this). Do not be deterred from eating the produce of your choice. Choose produce that is enjoyable, affordable, and accessible to you. And whether conventional, organic, or home-grown: eat more fruits and veggies!

Delicious strawberries. Photo: Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org

Resources:

Pesticide Facts: ‘Dirty Dozen’ List Contaminated with Non-Science:
https://pesticidefacts.org/perspectives/dirty-dozen-list-contaminated-with-non-science/

What is the “Dirty Dozen” list and should you be worried about it:
https://www.uaex.uada.edu/farm-ranch/crops-commercial-horticulture/horticulture/ar-fruit-veg-nut-update-blog/posts/dirtydozen.aspx

Organic vs. Conventional Pesticides:
https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/ENTO/ENTO-384/ENTO-384.html

Pesticide Facts: Pesticide Risk Analysis Ensures Food Safety:
https://pesticidefacts.org/perspectives/risk-analysis-ensures-food-safety/

USDA PDP Report (2024):
https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/PDPLABOPSOP.pdf

Pesticide Residue Calculator:
https://www.safefruitsandveggies.com/pesticide-residue-calculator/

Alliance for Food and Farming: Consumer Impacts
https://foodandfarming.info/alliance-for-food-and-farming-dirty-dozen-list-scientifically-unsupportable-hurts-consumers/

Washing fresh fruits and vegetables safely:
https://extension.umn.edu/preserving-and-preparing/wash-fresh-fruits-and-vegetables

Carl K. Winter and Josh M. Katz, 2011.  Dietary exposure to pesticide residues from commodities alleged to contain the highest contamination levels.  Journal of Toxicology, Article ID 589674, doi:10.1155/2011/589674.
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3135239/

Yancui Huang, Indika Edirisinghe, and Britt M. Burton-Freeman, 2016.  Low-income shoppers and fruit and vegetables:  What do they think?  Nutrition Today 51(5): 242-250.
https://journals.lww.com/nutritiontodayonline/fulltext/2016/09000/low_income_shoppers_and_fruit_and_vegetables__what.6.aspx

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To Neem or Not to Neem, That Is the Question

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by Hamutahl Cohen

You’ve probably seen Neem oil recommended in blogs, gardening forums, and on the shelf at your local gardening store. Neem is derived from the seeds of the Azadirachta indica tree, and is one type of horticultural oil that is used by gardeners looking for alternatives to synthetic insecticides. But is it effective? Is it benign? This post explores the pros and cons behind neem and other horticultural oils.


What Are Horticultural Oils?

Horticultural oils are either plant-based (like neem, canola, or clove oil) or mineral-based (refined petroleum products), and they work mostly by smothering soft-bodied pests like aphids, scale, and whiteflies.

Some plant-based oils do contain chemical compounds that can do more than smoother —neem oil contains azadirachtin, which disrupts insect development and feeding behavior.

Horticultural oils are typically considered low-toxicity for humans, and can be used on a very wide range of plants, including vegetables, fruits, ornamentals, and houseplants.

The PROS

  1. Broad-Spectrum Neem oil is effective against a range of insect pests and some fungal diseases, yet remains relatively safe for humans, pets, and other animals. According to the Environmental Protection Agency neem oil “has been shown to have minimal impact on non-target organisms” (EPA, 2012) such as birds and mammals.
  2. Reduced Resistance Potential
    Unlike synthetic insecticides that often target a specific physiological pathway (and thus promote resistance over time), neem oil affects multiple aspects of insect development, which makes resistance less likely to develop quickly.
  3. Organic-compatible and easy-to-apply
    Neem and other horticultural oils are generally approved for organic gardening. interventions. They are easy for home gardeners to use since you can spray from a store-bought bottle and avoid any special equipment.
  4. Low Residual Activity
    These oils break down quickly in sunlight and soil, reducing long-term environmental contamination and residue on edible crops.

The Cons

  1. Phytotoxicity Risk
    If you use oils in high temperature or direct sunlight, it can lead to leaf burn and plant damage. Apply it early in the morning or late in the day to minimize this risk.
  2. Non-Selective Action
    Neem and other oils can still harm beneficial insects if sprayed directly. Lady beetles, lacewings, and bees can be affected by fresh residues. You can time your application to avoid flowering periods, or spray during the evening when bees are less active to avoid non-target impacts.
  3. Repeat applications sometimes required
    The effects of oils can take days to manifest and may require repeated applications (e.g. every 10 days) for best results. Gardeners expecting immediate eradication may be disappointed. Oils often work best in conjuction with other control strategies (e.g. pruning out infested areas, releasing beneficials, etc.)
  4. Storage and Shelf Life
    Oils can degrade over time, especially when exposed to light and heat. They can go rancid or lose efficaciousness. Check the expiration date on your bottle and store in a cool, dark place.

Concluding Thoughts

I like horticultural oils. They can be effective tools and are safe for people to use. But they need to be used with some consideration, particularly timing to avoid non-target impacts to beneficial insects and leaf burn. Let me know your experience with oils.


References

EPA. (2012). Neem Oil; Exemption from the Requirement of a Tolerance. Federal Register. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2012/05/31/2012-13143/neem-oil-exemption-from-the-requirement-of-a-tolerance

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Using clouds to predict the weather

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Have you ever stopped while you were gardening to look at the clouds? Clouds, like flowers, come in a variety of shapes and sizes that can form beautiful patterns in the sky. But clouds are not just pretty, they can also be used to make predictions about the weather in the coming days. In this week’s post, we will look at the different types of clouds and how they relate to coming weather. You can use that to prepare for your garden work by knowing when it will be sunny and predicting when rain is coming.

Daisy sky, Dhilung Kirat, Commons Wikimedia.

How are clouds classified?

Clouds were first classified by Luke Howard in 1803 in his “Essay of the Modifications of Clouds”. Howard classified the clouds by their shape, using Latin names for wisps (cirrus), lumps (cumulus), or sheets (stratus) to describe how they looked in the sky. Clouds that are precipitating either rain or snow are called nimbus clouds. Some clouds are a combination of types, such as stratocumulus clouds, which look like a layer of lumpy clouds, or cumulonimbus clouds, which are the tall thunderstorms that form in summer. You can find a great gallery of cloud photos at the Cloud Appreciation Society. Wikipedia has an exhaustive list of cloud types online as well.

Clouds are also classified by heights. Most clouds form in a single layer of the atmosphere, but you can often see multiple layers of clouds when you look at the sky. These layers may be caused by different mechanisms. The shape and height of the clouds provide clues to what is going on in the atmosphere and are especially related to the presence (and sometimes absence) of warm and cold fronts that are harbingers of precipitation and a change in wind and temperature conditions.

There are many different types of clouds, each with a unique shape and location in the sky. UCAR/L.S. Gardiner

To estimate how high the clouds are, you can use a literal “rule of thumb” that works well for cumulus-type clouds. Hold your hand out towards a cloud. If the individual cloud is the size of your fist, then it is probably a low cloud. If the lump of cloud is the size of your thumb, then it is probably a mid-level cloud. And if it is the size of your little pinky joint, then it is probably a high cloud. Note that the clouds are the same size, but the difference in height makes them look like they are different sizes.

For stratus clouds, you can estimate the height by how transparent it is. A cloud layer that allows you to clearly see where the sun or moon is located is probably a high cloud. A layer that lets you see where the sun is but shows it with blurry edges (we sometimes call this a “ground glass” appearance), then it is probably a mid-level cloud. If it is so thick that you cannot see where the sun or moon is, then it is probably a low-level cloud. But please be careful not to look directly at the sun, since it can damage your eyes!

How do clouds form?

Clouds form where moist air cools off to the point that the water vapor condenses into small drops that become visible to us. Since the atmosphere generally cools off as you go up, the clouds form where the air is rising. The rising motion can be provided by heating from the earth’s surface, lifting of the air by a mountain, or large-scale upward motion caused by warm and cold fronts, where masses of air at different temperatures interact to create areas of rising air. The highest clouds usually form in the coldest air and form as ice crystals, leading to their wispy appearance. Lower clouds appear in warmer air where the water condenses as liquid droplets, leading to their more robust appearance.

Clouds associated with cold and warm fronts, U. K. Met Office.

How are cloud shapes related to atmospheric winds and structure?

The most interesting weather (at least to me, as a meteorologist) is where there are differences between masses of air at the surface and above the surface that are interacting. Boundaries between these air masses are called “fronts” and are named because they act like battle fronts between enemy armies. In a cold front (left side of diagram above), cold dense air near the surface pushes beneath a layer of warm, humid air, causing it to rise and cool. Clouds ahead of cold fronts tend to be relatively tall and energetic and form cumulonimbus clouds that can drop a lot of rain in a short time but generally tend to move through an area quickly unless the front stalls due to other atmospheric dynamics.

Warm fronts are large masses of warm, humid air that are pushing over the top of a layer of colder, more dense air (right side of diagram above). As the warm air rises, it slowly forms clouds as the layer cools to the temperature of condensation. Since the entire layer is rising, the clouds that form are often sheets of clouds rather than individual clouds. The higher clouds indicate that the moisture from an approaching warm front is present high in the atmosphere and shows that a warm front is likely to be approaching, signaling a change in the weather from cool to warmer conditions that could also drop rain as the warm front gets closer to your location. As the warm front gets closer, you should see the high clouds replaced by mid-level clouds like altostratus and then lower clouds like stratus clouds and nimbus clouds if they start producing rain. This usually happens over a day or two depending on the speed and strength of the surface warm front.

Pink flower, கவிக்குமார் ப, Commons Wikimedia.

If you see lumpy cloud forms, then they are most likely related to the rising motion of air due to columns of warm air rising from the surface (“thermals”). Air between the columns is sinking, which leaves clear spots between the clouds. Fair-weather cumulus clouds are the tops of these thermals, when the rising air cools down enough for the water vapor in the column to condense, forming the cloud. These types of clouds usually form when the ground is heated, most often by sunlight during the day but sometimes by pavement or wildfire as well as mountainous areas. They usually form on days when you are in a mass of warm, humid air that is far from a frontal boundary, although if they grow taller, then a cold front is likely to be approaching.

If the air is very hot and humid and the surrounding air is cooler than the rising column, then the clouds can grow vertically to great heights before they hit a layer that is warmer than the rising air and stop growing. These tall clouds are called cumulonimbus clouds because they often drop heavy rain as they develop. These often form along and ahead of cold fronts and indicate that the wind is likely to shift from a south wind to a colder wind coming from the northwest (in the Northern Hemisphere). In the worst cases, the rain can cause erosion or damage to fragile plants when it is very intense. Plants that live in rainy areas evolve to have such things as pointed tips or shiny leaf surfaces that shed the water quickly. Cumulonimbus clouds are also sometimes associated with high winds, hail, and tornadoes, all of which can damage garden plants and trees as well as harm humans and animals.

Cirrostratus clouds being illuminated by the sun and forming a halo, Eduardo Marquetti, Commons Wikimedia.

How can you predict the weather by watching the clouds?

As you work in your garden, take a look at the clouds above you. If they are high and wispy, then moisture high in the atmosphere may indicate that a warm front and a chance of rain is likely in a couple of days, especially if they get lower and denser over time. The picture of daisies at the beginning of this post shows high, wispy clouds that could indicate a warm front is approaching. The glowing ring of light that appears in cirrostratus clouds in the picture just above this paragraph may also be a sign that there is moisture on the way, leading to the saying that “a ring around the moon means rain in 48 hours”.

The chance of rain may affect your plans to spray your gardens or lawns for pests or fungal diseases, since many garden treatments have weather-related requirements for when to use them. Some work better when applied to wet leaves after rain falls, but others need a period of dry weather for the chemicals to be most effective. Make sure you read the labels to know what kind of weather they need. It may also tell you that it would be a good idea to mow the grass before it rains in the next 24-48 hours.

An Intercity from Amsterdam to Den Helder passes a field in full bloom near Schagen, Netherlands, Kabelleger / David Gubler, Commons Wikimedia.

If you are already in hot and humid conditions and you see cumulus clouds getting taller and more numerous over time, a cold front may be approaching. This could indicate a period of strong winds, heavy rain, some possible lightning, and sharply cooler temperatures which could be either a curse or a blessing depending on just how hot it has been. The very shallow clouds in the picture above (cumulus humilis) are most likely seen after the cold front has passed and there is minimal lifting to cause clouds to form.

Don’t forget to look up

A good gardener should always be keeping an eye on their garden but should also be watching the environment around it to see how the conditions might be changing in the future. Who knows what delights you will see if you just look around you? But don’t forget to look up, too, because the sky is full of wonders and can inform you about the future as well as strike you with awe.

Christian Collins, https://www.flickr.com/photos/collins_family/37126898590/, Commons Wikimedia.

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Bee Hotels: A Closer Look at Unintended Consequences

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Bee hotels have become popular additions to gardens, designed to support wild bees by providing them with nesting sites. Solitary bees, unlike honey bees, live in natural and man-made cavities which can be easily provided with nesting habitats. A previously published Garden Professors blog offers valuable insights into creating artificial nesting structures for these bees, emphasizing the importance of proper design and placement. However, if you’re thinking about installing a bee hotel, I’d urge you to reconsider – some studies suggest that bee hotels, if not correctly maintained, can inadvertently harm the very pollinators they’re meant to help.​

While bee hotels offer nesting opportunities, there is almost no research showing that they have a positive effect on bees. Some researchers also think bee hotels can become hotspots for parasites and pathogens (MacIvor & Packer 2015). High-density nesting sites can facilitate the spread of diseases, similar to how bird feeders can become transmission points for avian illnesses. Bees are particularly vulnerable to viruses, microsporidians, and fungal agents which can spread via exposure to feces or even through pollen left behind by bee visitors. Bee hotels can also attract bee predators – nesting aggregations of wild bees that are artificially close together might be attractive to parasitic wasps which infiltrate nests, laying their eggs inside and jeopardizing the bee larvae.

Bee hotels may still have their place, especially in community gardens where they can serve as a point of conversation and provide beauty and interest as a form of garden art. However, given the risk for disease spread, here are some tips for maintaining a bee hotel. 

Best Practices for Bee Hotel Maintenance

To ensure bee hotels remain beneficial:

  • Annual Cleaning: After bees have emerged in the spring, clean the hotel thoroughly. Remove and replace any natural reeds or paper straws. For wooden blocks, use a thin bottle brush or compressed air to clean out debris. ​
  • Use Removable Nesting Materials: Opt for bee hotels with removable tubes or liners. This design facilitates easier cleaning and reduces the risk of disease buildup.
  • Proper Design: Ensure that nesting holes are closed at one end to prevent parasites from accessing the nests from behind. 
  • Limit Nest Density: Avoid overcrowding by limiting the number of nesting tubes. A lower density reduces the chances of disease and parasite spread
  • Create Habitat: Leave undisturbed, unmulched areas in the borders and corners of your garden so that bees can nest naturally in the ground. Some bees also nest in dead twigs and hollow stems and branches, so consider leaving some behind for them. 

Do you have a bee hotel in your garden? What has been your experience with them?

References:

MacIvor, J. S., & Packer, L. (2015). ‘Bee hotels’ as tools for native pollinator conservation: a premature verdict?. PloS one10(3), e0122126.

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Fire and Ice: Why the East is baking while the West is freezing

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If you’ve been paying attention to the weather across the United States this past week, you may have noticed that most of the eastern U. S. is experiencing extremely hot temperatures, especially when you factor in the effects of humidity. At the same time, in the western U. S., it has been snowing in the mountains, even though it is almost July! In this week’s blog post we will look at why this pattern of hot and cold conditions occurs so often and what is causing it.

Mount Timpanogos with wild flowers (Utah, USA), Taken on 28 August 2011, Brian Smith, Commons Wikimedia.

Heat in the East

We have talked about persistent areas of very high temperatures several times in past blog posts (for example, here and here). Those areas most commonly form in summer under stagnant areas of high pressure that have sinking motion in the middle of the high. The sinking motion of the air keeps clouds and rain from developing, leading to very hot and dry air being trapped near the earth’s surface, raising temperatures and reducing wind speeds. Often those areas also include a lot of humidity, which makes the temperatures more oppressive because sweating does not cool you off efficiently if the humidity is high, especially if winds are also light.

Formation of a heat wave : a high-pressure circulation in the atmosphere acts like a dome or cap, trapping heat at the surface, National Ocean Service, NOAA.

When this happens, the National Weather Service will put out heat advisories or other statements reminding people to be careful to keep cool and stay out of the hot sun as a way to prevent heat-related illnesses like heat stroke. This is also important for gardeners, who like to spend time outside tending their plants and gardens. You can monitor the atmospheric conditions associated with heat to identify times when it would be better to stay inside where it is cool by using the National Weather Service’s HeatRisk map or the Southeast Regional Climate Center’s Wet Bulb Globe Temperature forecast tool (which is for the entire country, not just the Southeast).

Rafael Fire on June 27, 2021, InciWeb, Commons Wikimedia.

Note that heat domes don’t always occur in eastern parts of the country. A deadly heat dome occurred in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) in late June 2021, breaking numerous high temperature records and killing 136 people in Washington alone in the period from June 26 through July 6, 2021. In that case it was the West that was under unusually high temperatures while the Eastern U. S. was cooler than usual. They also occur in other parts of the world, and in fact this week Europe is also experiencing very high temperatures due to another region of high pressure parked over them.

It is also interesting to note that in winter, areas of high pressure are often the coldest areas of the country due to the lack of cloud cover, which allows heat from the earth to escape to space, leaving colder conditions at the surface at night when no sun is there to heat the ground.

Texel – De Hors – One of the heat wave days of the Summer of 2008 – At the South Beach Corner of Marsdiep & North Sea, Txllxt TxllxT, Commons Wikimedia.

Cold and snow in the West

On the other end of the country, cold air was trapped on the other side of the frontal boundary between the eastern high-pressure center and the low-pressure trough that was present in the western U. S. The cold air was so intense, especially at higher elevations, that snow fell in some mountainous areas of western Montana and surrounding states. The Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park had to be closed from June 20 to June 23 due to the heavy snow.

What connects these two extremes together?

The common connection between the heat in the East and the snow in the West is the large-scale atmospheric wave that is linked to both the low pressure in the west and the high pressure in the East. The atmosphere is a fluid and is constantly adjusting its pressure fields by forming waves with ridges of high pressure as well as troughs of low pressure. Sometimes these patterns get locked in place for a few days (or even longer in rare cases), which leads to more extreme effects, but they usually move on in a few days, causing the weather to go back to normal conditions or even flip-flopping to the opposite pattern. In fact, we discussed atmospheric waves back in July 2021 following the PNW extreme heat event in this blog.

Blocking high pressure, NOAA, https://www.noaa.gov/jetstream/upper-air-charts/basic-wave-patterns.

The surface weather associated with these areas of high and low pressure are what cause the big changes in observed conditions that gardeners and farmers have to deal with since they can have big impacts on flowers and crops. The atmospheric wave pattern can lock in place for a number of reasons including conditions in other parts of the earth such as unusually cold or warm water in the ocean or droughts or floods in other areas. Fortunately, these stationary patterns usually shift or break down after a few days, leading to big changes in local weather conditions that might be more welcome.

How do cold and hot outbreaks affect gardens?

Most garden plants are fairly resilient to the changes in temperature, humidity, winds, and cloudiness that come with the shifts in the atmospheric waves and their associated surface weather. Plants respond differently to heat than humans and other animals do because they don’t sweat. High heat can cause the plants to close the stoma in their leaves to retain moisture, but a long enough period of high temperatures and dry conditions with little soil moisture leads to wilting and eventually, death of the plants. Of course, most gardeners are watering their gardens to avoid this worst case!

Red flower, Daniel Shawyer, Commons Wikimedia.

Cold spells in summer do not cause as much damage as frost and snow in spring and fall because they just don’t get cold enough to damage the plants (unless you are in the mountains and the temperatures drop below freezing), but they can slow the plants’ growth and reduce their flower or fruit production. Food crops that depend on a significant number of growing degree days (a measure of the accumulation of heat over time based on daily temperatures) will grow more slowly, resulting in late harvest of whatever crop is being grown. In the worst cases, it could delay harvest so late in fall that fall frosts become a consideration, but most home gardeners do not need to worry about this as much as commercial farmers because they are not farming hundreds of acres of crops, just their own patch of land.

I encourage you to visit some of the links in the article above to learn more about heat domes and atmospheric waves as well as their impact on your garden plants. You can also use the search field to find additional sources of information about any topic of gardening that you might want to learn more about, especially one that relates to the science of gardening. It’s a great resource!

残雪とエゾツガザクラ(Snow and flowers), pakku, taken on 31 July 2009, Commons Wikimedia.

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Introducing Hamutahl Cohen: from bug-phobic to bug-lover

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I wish I could say I grew up with an innate fascination for the insect world—that I was one of those kids who spent hours flipping over rocks to marvel at beetles and ants. But the truth is, growing up in urban Los Angeles, I rarely interacted with nature at all. And insects? I was terrified of them. I was the last person to volunteer for anything involving creepy crawlies.

That all changed in college. I enrolled in an introductory environmental science class, and one guest lecture changed the course of my life. A campus professor gave a talk on agroecology, describing how their work wove together science, practice, and social movements to promote sustainable pest management. I was captivated. Here was a discipline that tackled food production, ecological health, and community well-being—all at once. It felt like a bold, grounded approach to conservation—not one that isolates nature in national parks, but one that weaves ecological thinking into everyday landscapes like farms and gardens.

I emailed him that very day, requesting an internship—and he agreed. My first day on the job found me in a vineyard in the Central Valley, shaking grapevines over a beating sheet, pretending I wasn’t afraid as a swarm of insects fell onto the canvas. The graduate students in the lab patiently taught me how to tell wasps from bees, bugs from beetles, and moths from butterflies. They also introduced me to the foundational concepts of biological and cultural control—how pests can be managed using natural enemies and sustainable farming practices. Later that year, one of those graduate students asked if I’d be willing to host one of his beehives in my backyard. I instantly fell in love with those bees—their complex, maternal society, their admirable work either, and the delicious honey they produced. That hive sealed it for me: I was going to become an entomologist.

After graduating, I apprenticed at the UC Santa Cruz Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems, where I sharpened my skills in horticulture, including irrigation, nutrient management, composting, greenhouse production, and pest management. I worked across a diverse range of crops, from annual vegetables to ornamentals and perennial fruit trees. During my Ph.D. and postdoctoral work, I focused on how farm and garden management practices influence wild bees and their susceptibility to the parasites and pathogens implicated in pollinator declines. My research sits at the intersection of agriculture and ecology, and I’ve always believed that productive farming and environmental stewardship should go hand in hand.

Now, I serve as an Extension Advisor with the University of California, based in Ventura County. As an entomologist, my primarily focus is on integrated pest management of insect pests, including identification and monitoring, developing cultural and biological control methods, and evaluating new chemical control products. One of the best parts of my job is the incredible variety of crops I get to work with, including avocado, citrus, strawberries, cole crops, and greenhouse ornamentals – working with so many different commodities means that I’m constantly learning. In my work I aim to provide science-based, practical recommendations that help farmers, pest control advisors, and others in the industry to effectively manage pests while safeguarding beneficial insects and human health. For example, I’m currently leading several projects that explore how small-scale habitat enhancements—like hedgerows or cover crops—can improve pest control and support wild pollinators in citrus orchards.

I didn’t set out to become an entomologist. But through a mix of chance, community, and unexpected inspiration, I’ve found myself surrounded by insects—not in fear, but in deep fascination and appreciation.

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Gardening in high places

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I am traveling in Colorado this week, so my thoughts naturally turned towards the mountains. Mountains affect gardening in a number of ways, many of which include a weather or climate component. They also provide some special challenges for gardeners because of the harsh conditions and short growing seasons that are often found in and near mountainous terrain.

Red Rocks Park in Autumn, MichaelKirsh, Commons Wikimedia.

How the mountains affect weather and climate

It is said that mountains create their own weather, and there is a lot of truth to that. Mountains interact with the atmosphere in several ways, and that interaction can change both the atmosphere itself and the conditions on the surface of the mountain that is being affected by the air.

One way that mountains affect the atmosphere is by providing a physical barrier to the flow of air. Obviously, air can’t flow into a mountain slope, so it must either go up the slope, around the mountain crest, or through the valley between peaks. Air that is pushed up the mountain usually results in the formation of clouds on the upwind side, since rising air cools as it goes up and eventually the moisture in the air condenses to form cloud droplets, and eventually rain or snow, called “orographic precipitation”.

Cape Town—Table Mountain as seen from Company’s Garden, Romaine, Commons Wikimedia.

On the downwind side of the mountain, the air typically sinks and dries out, since the moisture has been wrung from the air by the rain or snow left on the upwind side. That can lead to a “rain shadow” effect with low precipitation amounts downwind of a single mountain or a range of mountains such as the Rockies. Flow over the mountains can also result in the development of lenticular clouds downwind as the air rises and sinks in waves produced as the wind moves over the peaks. You can see how rainfall affects climate across the United States at NOAA’s “The highs and lows of climate“.

Lenticular clouds captured at dusk in Hilo, Hawai‘i., Lenticular Clouds in Hilo, Commons Wikimedia.

If the air is diverted sideways around the mountain it can block the wind from hitting some locations downwind of the peak. Our fearless leader Linda told me she experienced this just a few weeks ago when a strong low-pressure center moved into the Northwest, bringing strong winds to the region. However, Linda noted that in her location, those winds were blocked by Mount Rainier, resulting in much lower local wind speeds due to the shelter from the massive mountain.

Wind flow up and down the mountains due to temperature variations

Mountains can heat or cool the air around them, depending on the time of day and the season. In summer, the peaks warm up and provide a heat source that helps lead to the formation of thunderstorms. You can see this almost every summer day in the western US with storms that develop over the mountains as the sun warms them. Those storms then move out over the prairies, leading to scattered rain or even virga, rain that evaporates before it falls to the ground. At night or in winter, the air near the peaks cools quickly and the denser air flows down the mountains into the valleys, resulting in katabatic winds that can cause freezes in low-lying areas when the coldest air reaches the lowest elevations. In this situation, the valley floors may experience frosts while areas on the slopes remain above freezing because the dense air drains through them relatively quickly. The winds can also increase evaporation rates, limiting the amount of available moisture and causing water stress on garden plants.

Orographic rainfall diagram, Encyclopedia Brittanica, Inc.

Temperature variation with elevation and orientation

The surrounding atmosphere also affects conditions on the mountain terrain. Atmospheric temperatures decrease with height, so as you go up in elevation on a mountain, the temperature will drop. This can lead to cooler climates and shorter growing seasons due to the increased likelihood of frost with the colder temperatures. This limits the types of plants that gardeners can grow because the climate of that location has limited suitability for plants that grow well on the flatlands.

Another aspect of mountainous terrain is the number of microclimates that are present in the rocky, uneven landscape. Mountaintops and sides offer a range of microclimates, from sunny, well-drained slopes to shady, cooler areas, influencing plant growth in different locations. North-facing slopes get little direct sunlight and can pool pockets of cold air that result in frosts every month of the year, while sunny south-facing slopes could be much warmer and more suitable for a variety of plants. Any mountain gardener has to be especially aware of the local microclimates in their area and account for them when choosing what and when to plant.

Alpine garden, Montreal Botanical Garden, Thomas1313, Commons Wikimedia.

Of course, there are other characteristics of mountains that can also affect garden success. Soils are often shallow, rocky, and low in organic matter. Lower pressure and humidity may cause problems with plants’ ability to thrive in the harsher conditions. Sunlight can be very intense and shade from taller plants may be limited. Some areas may experience extensive periods of snow, which can provide insulation but can also damage plants when it slides downslope.

Gardening in the mountains can provide challenges for many gardeners due to the difficult environment that the mountain air provides, but it can also allow gardeners to create unique collections of alpine vegetation that can provide enjoyment for years to come, all set in a diverse and scenic landscape. Be sure to look for additional information on alpine or mountain gardening on the web to make sure your garden is well-suited to your local conditions.

Alpinarium w Bydgoszczy, Pit1233, Commons Wikimedia

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An Ode to the Dandelion:

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Deciphering fact from fiction for one of the most infamous plants in the world.

Dandelion in a lawn. Photo: Abiya Saeed

Dandelions can be a bit of a polarizing subject for gardeners. Some absolutely love them, while others may despise seeing these bright yellow bursts of unconformity in an otherwise ‘pristine’ lawn and garden landscape. Many often find themselves somewhere in the middle of this spectrum. Dandelions are also used as a symbol for resilience–growing despite all odds in some very harsh and unforgiving environments–often ones where few cultivated plants would successfully grow. Some people enjoy eating them, while others embrace them as a source of nectar, pollen, and food for other critters in the landscape. There is a lot of wonder in the way that they disperse, and many kids and adults alike have enjoyed blowing on dandelion seed heads (with or without making a wish) to watch them float away in the wind, drifting to new locations that they can conquer as their own. There is even an annual festival devoted to dandelions in Carbondale, Colorado (located in the same county where I served as an Extension Agent several years ago). When I attended years ago, it was such a cute and unique event, where people were wearing dandelion flower crowns, sharing art and artisan products associated with dandelions, and enjoying music and merriment in the spirit of the whimsical yellow plant. There is a lot of myth, magic, and majesty associated with dandelions, that it can be hard to decipher fact from fiction.

I get asked about dandelions more than any other plant combined– especially pertaining to pollinators, but also many other things. These queries come from people of all backgrounds and viewpoints, ranging from: how to get rid of them, to: how one can encourage and/or intentionally grow and cultivate them. These queries are especially common as spring rolls into Montana with the classic yellow bursts of color being some of the most visible flowers at this time of year, especially in the colder climates of zone 4 in the greater Rocky Mountain region. I have found myself endlessly poring over research to try and answer some of those questions, that I thought it would be fun to ‘dig in’ (pun always intended) to the lore of dandelions and the science-based information that we have on this notorious plant.

The Dandelion

Dandelions (Genus: Taraxacum) are a widespread genus in the Aster family that can be found in most parts of the world, either as a native plant or naturalized through intentional and unintentional introductions. Although there are around 250 species in the genus, the most widespread dandelion species is Taraxicum officinale, also known as the ‘common dandelion’, which originates from Eurasia but is now naturalized in many parts of the world (and can be found on on every continent except Antarctica). For the purposes of this Blog post, I will be focusing on information pertaining to the common dandelion (Taraxicum officinale). This is considered a short-lived perennial plant that can reproduce sexually (through seeds) and asexually (through the roots), can withstand a wide variety of climates and soil conditions, all of which can contribute to the fact that dandelions are so prolific and widespread.

Dandelion seed head. Photo: Joseph OBrien, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

Starting out as a rosette of lance-shaped leaves, it shoots up the characteristic yellow flowers in early spring. Each ‘flower’ is actually an inflorescence that consists of several ray and disc florets clustered together (similar to its relative: the sunflower). The length of the flower stalk is extremely variable, ranging from a couple of inches (in frequently mowed areas such as lawns) to multiple feet in length. I once saw a dandelion curiously poking out through the top of a boxwood shrub that was nearly 3 feet tall, and upon investigation, measured the stalk at a staggering 35 inches (which is half the length of the tallest dandelion stalk on record found in Ontario, Canada). The flowers are followed by the very distinct seed-heads which contain individual seeds, each of which are attached to a fine tuft of hairs (a pappus) that act as a parachute to aid in wind dispersal. Dandelions are well-known for their tap-root which can contribute to the plant’s drought tolerance, and allows them to compete well with other vegetation for limited resources.

Dandelion seed pappus. Photo: Joseph Berger, Bugwood.org

Dandelions as an Edible Plant

The fact that dandelions are edible is not a topic that is frequently debated. Many know this to be true. Almost every part of the common dandelion from the taproot to the flower heads is all edible (with the exception being the stems which contain a milky latex that can be very bitter). Plenty of dandelion recipes can be found with a quick Google search. There is, however, much debate about their taste. To some, dandelions are a whimsical treat, where you may enjoy the flowers or young leaves in a salad, while others choose to steep parts of the plant to make teas, or enjoy the fermented products as delectable dandelion wines. Furthermore, dandelions can be found in many skincare products, salves, lotions, herbal remedies, and more.

In North America, European settlers intentionally brought dandelions for their nutritional and medicinal value. They were intentionally grown alongside vegetable and herb plantings, and used to remedy a variety of ailments. The nutritious properties of dandelions are comparable to salad greens such as spinach and arugula. Leaves are high in potassium, calcium, and iron, whereas the roots can have diuretic and laxative properties. For more information on dandelions as food, check out the link to the publication from University of Wisconsin in the resources.

Dandelion Salad. Photo: University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension.

Although I have yet to find a dandelion recipe that I thoroughly enjoy (besides recipes that try and mask the flavors using in intense array of herbs and spices, or baking them into treats, brewing them into teas, and fermenting them into wines). I am not personally a fan of the bitter and earthy flavor of the raw plant, though I admit, I haven’t tried all variations of cooking or flavoring the parts of a dandelion. If you have a recipe you love and swear by, feel free to share it with me, and I will give it a try (as long as it isn’t too time and resource intensive). Regardless of your taste preferences, if you do choose to eat dandelions, collect them from a safe location, make sure that they have not been treated with any chemicals, and wash them thoroughly to remove any soil, debris, or insects.

Dandelions and Pollinators

Many embrace dandelions because of the associated value to pollinators. The science behind this, however, is not as black and white as some may think. Although dandelions can be convenient sources of pollen and nectar for pollinators in highly urbanized landscapes, especially early in the season when very few other plants may be flowering in some of these densely populated areas, they are not the highest quality source of food for many of our pollinators. Some claim that dandelions are the earliest flowering plants blooming in the spring, which is also untrue in many parts of the world. That being said, dandelions are among the most widespread and consistent sources of nectar and pollen in some landscapes (such as urban areas with fewer flowering plants intentionally incorporated to support pollinators all season long) and also some of the earliest blooming plants visible in these types of landscapes.

An Andrenid bee foraging on a dandelion. Photo: B. Merle Shepard, Clemson University, Bugwood.org

A lot of research has been done that shows dandelions attract a wide array of pollinator species, and can therefore be a critical source of food for pollinators in urban areas, where these plants are widespread and can act to bridge the gaps between other areas of more diverse floral resources (Larson et al., 2014). Research also shows that dandelions do not have the most nutritious nectar and pollen, lacking in certain important amino acids, making pollinators (such as honey bees) unable to survive on dandelions alone (Loper and Cohen, 1987). We also know that a dandelion-only diet can impact the ability of honey bees to rear brood (Herbert et al., 1970). Unfortunately, our research is usually restricted to managed bee species such as honey bees, so we have far less information on how most of our pollinator species (including the rest of our 20,000 species of bees) would respond to a dandelion-focused diet. What we do know is that pollinators need a varied diet with floral resources available all season long, including early and late in the growing season when some nectar and pollen collecting species have to begin provisioning their nests and when some species are getting ready to overwinter. Although there are countless flowering plants that are better for supporting pollinators, dandelions will always have a place on that list until more intentional pollinator-friendly plantings are incorporated.

Dandelions can also support caterpillars of a variety of butterfly and moth species. These caterpillars will use the rosette of leaves produced by dandelions as their primary source of food, or as part of a wider diet consisting of a variety of plants. These caterpillars, in turn, can be an important source of food for animals higher up on the food chain (including birds). This can make dandelions important for ecosystems beyond just their nectar and pollen for pollinators.

Dandelions as a Weed

Common dandelions are undoubtedly a resilient plant in many landscapes, as all of us have seen them popping up in lawns, through dense vegetation, in gravel roads and driveways, sidewalks, roadsides, and so on. In fact, it would be difficult to imagine a landscape without dandelions. Because they can grow in conditions that may not favor some other cultivated plants, and therefore may be found taking over areas where you wanted to grow something else, they are commonly considered a weed. In fact, they are probably the most famous weed you can think of, and the poster plant for many lawn care companies, herbicides, and other garden products aimed at controlling or limiting their abundance in our managed landscapes.

Some research shows that dandelions can compete with native vegetation for resources. Research in Japan on native Taraxacum spp. and the impact of growing alongside Taraxicum officinale showed a reduction in seed production for the native species (Kandori et al., 2009). The authors hypothesized that the more attractive flowers of T. officinale may deprive the native species of pollinators, resulting in a reduction of pollination services. They also stated that the transfer of pollen from the non-native species could interfere with the successful reproduction of the native species, however, this was disproven by hand-pollination experiments (Kyogoku, 2021).

In many home garden settings, whether or not something is a weed, is usually very subjective and dandelions are no exception. I, personally, don’t mind dandelions growing opportunistically in certain managed landscapes (though seeing non-native dandelions in natural ecosystems is an entirely different story). My stance on many persistent (non-noxious) weeds in the garden is usually a variation of ‘may the best plant win’, but I know that not everyone feels this way. Although some embrace the odd dandelion speckled in a lawn, when you have large swaths of dandelions in the place of what used to be turfgrass, the problem usually extends beyond dandelions themselves.

Dandelions aplenty! Photo: Steve Dewey, Utah State University, Bugwood.org

One of the best ways to combat dandelions in a turf lawn setting, is to make sure that your turfgrass is healthy and able to form dense coverage on the soil. Healthy turf can often outcompete weedy vegetation that can opportunistically take advantage of open spaces for establishment. Addressing soil compaction, nutrient needs, and responsibly caring for your turf lawns can all play a role in reducing weed issues, including dandelions. For situations where competing vegetation may not be an option, mulches can be used to reduce the presence of dandelions that may be found in flower beds or veggie gardens. Mechanical removal is also very effective for controlling dandelions, depending on the scale of the issue. Using your favorite tap-root removal tool (such as the aptly named dandelion fork) can remove plants without too much exertion. Pulling out as much of the root as possible will offer the best control, as dandelions are less likely to propagate from smaller root fragments.

Several herbicide options are also available for dandelion control. Broadleaf herbicides such as 2,4-D, dicamba, and MCPP (commonly found in ‘weed and feed’ fertilizer products) can be effective for dandelion control in lawn settings. Spot-treating individual plants using an appropriately labeled broadleaf weed killer is usually more effective than broadcast application across larger areas. Herbicides with the active ingredient Glyphosate are not as effective for long-term control of perennial weeds like dandelions, because they often knock back leaves without killing the roots, which allows the plants to regenerate. These products can be more effective if a plant is cut or mowed and the herbicide is carefully painted on the fresh cut, which can facilitate movement into the root system. Late summer and early fall is the best time to control perennial weeds such as dandelions. This is because these plants are moving resources from the foliage to the root system in order to prepare for winter, which can also help to transport systemic herbicides to their roots and/or deplete their root systems of energy for more effective and longer-lasting control.  (Remember that herbicides may kill desirable plants, and not just weeds- so use them responsibly and sparingly while taking precautions not to apply them near susceptible plants). Always, always, always read and follow label directions, and if unsure: reach out to your Extension resources for assistance.

Make a wish! Photo: Charles T. Bryson, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org

Whether you are a big fan of dandelions, or the opposite of that–I hope that you learned something new from this post–and continue to be curious about the plants that surround us!

Resources:

University of Wisconsin: Dandelion, Taraxacum officinale

Dandelion recipes: https://www.theprairiehomestead.com/2014/04/dandelion-recipes.html

Larson, J. L., Kesheimer, A. J., & Potter, D. A. (2014). Pollinator assemblages on dandelions and white clover in urban and suburban lawns. Journal of Insect Conservation18, 863-873. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10841-014-9694-9

Loper, G. M., & Cohen, A. C. (1987). Amino acid content of dandelion pollen, a honey bee (Hymenoptera: Apidae) nutritional evaluation. Journal of Economic Entomology80(1), 14-17. https://academic.oup.com/jee/article-abstract/80/1/14/757976?redirectedFrom=fulltext

Herbert, E. W., Bickley, W. E., & Shimanuki, H. (1970). The brood-rearing capability of caged honey bees fed dandelion and mixed pollen diets. Journal of Economic Entomology63(1), 215-218. https://academic.oup.com/jee/article-abstract/63/1/215/798721

Kandori, I., Hirao, T., Matsunaga, S., & Kurosaki, T. (2009). An invasive dandelion unilaterally reduces the reproduction of a native congener through competition for pollination. Oecologia159, 559-569.
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00442-008-1250-4

Kyogoku, D. (2021). Pollination from invasive dandelions is unlikely to reduce seed production in the native Japanese dandelion, Taraxacum japonicum. Weed Research, 61(2), 106-114.
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/wre.12462?casa_token=6TlTr9JK5KkAAAAA%3AkxZ20v6UZKUGMCYpexHDgwO4DVrRZy2Ilc2q6u_bHPAFuysDEjDaXZ0gETfo2FQvV4w_7p_iyUsabFQE

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The end of La Niña and what we expect in this summer 2025

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In the last few weeks NOAA has declared the end of the weak La Niña that has been present in the eastern Pacific Ocean and the return to neutral conditions. I want to take time today to discuss what it means for our summer growing season in the United States. I will also provide some links to guidance for how it might affect conditions in other parts of the world for our non-US readers.

Rain droplets on peony, Paul VanDerWerf, Commons Wikimedia

Why do we keep track of La Niña and El Niño?

We have discussed El Niño and La Niña (collectively called El Niño Southern Oscillation or ENSO) many times in this blog. You can read more details here, here and here, for example. Over the past winter, the Eastern Pacific Ocean has been colder than normal; this is considered a La Niña event. We were waiting for it all fall but it was not officially declared until early January, and it was considered a weak event with cold conditions that barely met the criteria to be called a La Niña. A couple of weeks ago NOAA noted that the ocean temperatures no longer met the threshold to be called a La Niña and declared that we are back to neutral conditions with ocean temperatures returning to near-normal conditions. Where it goes from here is still uncertain, but the prediction is that we will be in neutral conditions for most of the summer and perhaps all the way through the rest of 2025.

We track ENSO carefully because it is an internal oscillation of the atmosphere-ocean circulation that has big implications for variations in climate across the globe.  If we know what phase of ENSO we are in, we can make some statistical predictions of what the climate is likely to be at our locations as well as others around the world. This is because the ocean temperature is linked to vertical cloud growth, which can act like a rock in a river, diverting the high-elevation winds north or south. Those winds push around the storms that bring clouds and precipitation to the regions where they are located, so that gives us some knowledge of what weather we might generally expect to experience. Of course, each El Niño and La Niña are different because the atmosphere is constantly adjusting in relation to other factors like droughts and floods, heat spells and cold outbreaks, so every event is unique, but statistically there are known relationships that give us some confidence in how our coming climate for at least the next few months might be.

Fountain Garden–Hampton Court Palace, Stevekeiretsu, Commons Wikimedia

What do we expect this Northern Hemisphere summer?

The strongest statistical relationships between the ENSO phase and climate conditions occur in the winter months, so the climate pattern this summer will be affected in some ways by the neutral conditions but will be more affected by other factors. The biggest impact will come during the Atlantic tropical season, since neutral years are linked to higher than average numbers of named storms. And sure enough, this year the early seasonal forecasts are for more storms than usual. The number is likely to be a little lower than last year because the Gulf and the Atlantic Ocean are not as warm as they were last year, although they are still warmer than average. Tropical cyclones in the Eastern Pacific Ocean could be fewer than normal because that is typical in a neutral year, but the water there is pretty warm so that would likely lead to more storms.

NOAA’s seasonal forecasts

NOAA’s Climate Prediction Center has issued their 3-month forecasts for the early summer (May-July) and late summer (August-October). The maps are shown below. For the early summer period of May through July, most of the country is likely to be warmer than normal with the exception of the Northern Plains, which has equal chances of above, below, and near normal temperatures. Note that the depth of the color shows how high the probability of that condition is, not how hot it will be. The rainfall this summer is expected to be drier than normal in the western half of the United States except for southern Arizona and New Mexico, which has a chance of experiencing a wetter than normal monsoon. The northern Gulf Coast and the Eastern seaboard is all expected to be wetter than normal, at least in part because some of that rain will be coming from the tropical storms that are expected to occur during the hurricane season from June through November.

For later summer (August through October), all of the country is expected to be warmer than normal, with some areas more likely than others. Rainfall continues to show a wetter pattern than usual in the Southeast and in the monsoon region but is likely to be drier than normal in the northern Plains.

You might ask why the maps show a tendency towards above normal temperatures. That is mainly due to the rising temperatures associated with global warming. As temperatures continue to rise due to the greenhouse gases being emitted into the atmosphere, on the average each year will be a little warmer than the last, although of course there are year to year variations due to ENSO and other variations like ocean temperatures and drought that affect individual years’ statistics. But in the absence of detailed information about the coming year, it is a better bet that we will get a warmer than average year than a colder than average one.

How can gardeners use that information to plan this year’s gardens?

If you are just starting to plan or plant this year’s garden, you can use the information from the CPC to help determine what kinds of flowers and vegetables to put in. If you know that the summer is likely to be warmer than usual, then you can purchase plants that love the summer heat! Be prepared to water them, though, unless you are planting succulents or cacti. This will be especially true if you are also predicted to be drier than normal over the summer, because your gardens are likely to demand a lot of water if there is no rain to quench their thirst. You can help keep moisture in the soil by adding arborist chips as mulch over the surface of the soil to minimize the loss of soil moisture from the root zone.

Fountains at Balboa Park, San Diego, Jon Sullivan, Commons Wikimedia.

Since neutral conditions, where neither El Niño nor La Niña are present, are associated with more tropical storm activity in the Atlantic, if you are living in an area that is normally affected by those storms, you should prepare ahead of time by storm-proofing your garden and home and watching the forecasts carefully once we start to get into the active season. It is never too early to prepare!

If you live in another part of the world, there are also climate patterns associated with La Niña and El Niño that you can use to make similar garden plans. You can find them at IRI – International Research Institute for Climate and Society | ENSO Resources and Global impacts of El Niño and La Niña | NOAA Climate.gov.

I hope you have a great growing season and enjoy the fruits and the scents and sights of your garden if you are in the Northern Hemisphere or planning for the next growing season if you are in the Southern Hemisphere far from the equator. We love to see your photos on our Facebook page!

Zinnia Elegans, Muhammad Khaikal Al-Akbarsyah, Commons Wikimedia
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“Can’t start a fire without a spark”

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There are many popular songs about fire. Those of you who are fans of Bruce Springsteen will recognize these lyrics from “Dancing in the Dark”. They popped into my head when I was driving home from Asheville NC to Athens GA this past weekend and noticed plumes of wildfires punctuating the air along the highway. That inspired me to write this post on wildfires, which are affecting the Southeast this spring but also affects many areas of the United States and the world too, especially when those areas are in drought. In this post I will discuss how wildfires start, how the local environment may help them spread, and what you can do to protect your properties and gardens from the impacts of wildfires in your communities.

David Sands / Rosebay willowherb leads the way to a ruined building / CC BY-SA 2.0

Wildfires versus prescribed burns

Fires in the environment can be caused by natural events like lightning or can be sparked by human sources. Some fires are set on purpose to clear land and reduce fuel loads so wildfires are less likely to occur and some are caused by ignition sources like sparks from dragging chains, a carelessly tossed cigarette butt, or an untended campfire. Some are set deliberately to cause damage and chaos by arsonists or are the result of careless children or adults. According to Earth.org, “40% of wildfires that affect British Columbia in an average year are human-induced. In the US, the amount is more than double, with nearly 85% of the nearly 100,000 wildland fires that affect North America every year caused by human activities, according to data from the National Park Service.”

Incendio, Sevilla Este, agosto de 2014, Benjamín Núñez González, Commons Wikimedia.

The fires that are set to reduce fuel loads and remove overgrowth from land are called “prescribed fires” and they are regulated by most states. Farmers sometimes use controlled burns to remove cover crops and prepare for spring planting. Those who want to set a prescribed fire usually have to file a form or follow a procedure to indicate what they are going to burn and when and what the weather was at the time of the burn. They are also expected to file all the necessary permits and notices for smoke and fire hazards. In some states you must be certified to conduct a controlled burn. If the weather is too windy or the humidity too low, they are generally not allowed because the chance of a fire getting out of control is high in those atmospheric conditions. There have been instances of prescribed fires escaping their planned burn areas or causing significant hazards, including a number of deadly multi-car accidents when the aerosols from the fire attracted enough water vapor to form a “superfog” that moved across a busy highway and caused visibility to fall to near-zero feet which blinded drivers speeding down the roads. “Superfog” is especially dangerous if it occurs overnight when the humidity is the highest which causes it to be more dense.

Savannah NWR Prescribed Fire, Judy Doyle, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Southeast Region, Commons Wikimedia.

What are the causes of wildfires and how do they spread?

The number one cause of wildfires from natural causes is lightning strikes, especially in areas of drought when the vegetation is very dry and moisture is scarce. Volcanoes can sometimes cause fires by dropping hot embers onto flammable land cover and buildings. Strong winds can quickly spread the fires to new areas downwind and provide a source of oxygen that helps them continue to burn. In areas with a lot of fuel like drought-stricken national forests or open grasslands the fires can rage out of control and cover large areas in short amounts of time.

Lick Fire on the Umatilla National Forest burning at night, U.S. Forest Service- Pacific Northwest Region, Commons Wikimedia.

How to know when you are threatened by wildfire

When conditions are ripe for wildfires, government agencies such as the National Weather Service and state forestry departments will often put out watches and warnings to notify people in areas that are vulnerable to wildfires to be aware of threatening conditions and prepare to evacuate if necessary. If you live in an area that is prone to wildfires, you should make a plan for how to get out quickly and safely and share it with your family and colleagues. If an evacuation order is sent out you should be prepared to move quickly to safety carrying necessary documents, medicines, and valuable property with you in a “go bag” which is assembled ahead of time.

Zones 1 and 2 make up the area immediately surrounding structures on your property. These areas must be well irrigated and consideration must be given to the types of plants used, and the clearance between them | Photo by Courtesy CAL FIRE (from Firesafe Landscaping: Defensible Space – This Old House)

What you can do to your gardens and properties to minimize damage from wildfires

The best way to minimize damage from wildfires is to design your homes with fire-proof or at least fire-resistant materials. In the landscape around your home, plant appropriate plants and keep combustible material at least 30 feet from your home. Create horizontal and vertical breaks in the landscape to slow the spread of flames. Make sure that you have removed low-hanging dead branches and removed any dry shrubs, pine needles, dead grass, and vegetation. You can find additional information on creating fire-safe landscaping here and here. If you live in a fire-prone area you should also be prepared to stay and defend your home if it is too late to evacuate, but this should only be done if you have no other options. If you are able, evacuation is always the best option.

After the fire – other hazards

Hazards caused by fires continue even after the flames are out. Burned-out trees have lower strength and may be prone to dropping limbs or even falling over, creating hazards to anyone or anything beneath them. Ashes may have toxic components that can be carried long distances by the wind or by vehicle tires. In one of my favorite books, The Control of Nature, author John McPhee discusses the debris flows that can occur out west when heavy rain falls on recent fire scars, leading to the destruction of buildings and blockage or destruction of streets and other infrastructure by mud and boulders.

Smoke Plume from the 2024 Adams Fire, US Government, Commons Wikimedia.

Wildfires are a hazard which can affect any place that has flammable vegetation. Take the time to understand what your risk from wildfire is, plan your landscaping accordingly and you will be better protected from this dangerous natural (and sometimes human-made) disaster!

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