The Garden Professors™

As a lover of the weird and wonderful, October is one of my favorite months of the year, because of Spooky Season. To celebrate, I thought it would be fun to learn about some of the weird and wonderful plants around us, especially some of the most notorious: carnivorous plants.

Whether you like to grow them, observe them in their natural habitats, or simply just learn about them, it’s easy to understand our collective fascination with carnivorous plants. Many of us may have seen depictions of ‘man-eating plants’ in horror movies, or exaggerated tales of some of these killer plants in fictional stories, cartoons, and other pop culture references. The horror genre’s elaborate and embellished portrayals of carnivorous plants were inspired by Charles Darwin, before which plants were considered to be innocent bystanders to the ecological phenomena surrounding them. Having spent 16 years researching carnivorous plants, Darwin published multiple books about them. This shifted our perception of plants as a whole and how they interacted with other organisms, giving rise to our fascination with carnivorous plants, driving our desire to understand their biology, and fueling our creativity by exaggerating some of these adaptations into very entertaining science fiction. I wonder If he could have ever imagined the creative ways in which popular culture (especially science fiction and horror) would go on to embrace these botanical marvels.

Types of Carnivorous Plants

Carnivorous plants are defined as plants that extract nutrients from animals. These plants have a variety of adaptations that allow them to capture and/or trap prey (most often insects and other arthropods), and enzymes that can break this prey down into nutrients that can be used by the plants themselves. Although carnivorous plants do still perform photosynthesis, they get most of their nutrients from captured prey.

Some of the more famous carnivorous plants include the charismatic Venus fly trap (Dionaea muscipula), the North American native pitcher plants (Sarracenia spp.), the tropical vining pitcher plants (Nepenthes spp.), the widespread sundews (Drosera spp.) and butterworts (Pinguicula spp.), and the moisture-loving and often aquatic bladderworts (Utricularia spp.). Some not as well-known examples include a few species of carnivorous Bromeliads (in the genera Brocchinia and Catopsis), and Triphyophyllum peltatum that can become carnivorous in situations of nutrient scarcity, after which it may revert to a non-carnivorous lifestyle. There is also a plant called the Gorgon’s Dewstick (Roridula gorgonia) which captures insects, but lacks the mechanism to digest this captured prey. Instead, this fascinating plant will trap this prey to attract the jumping tree bug (Pamerida spp.) which feeds on these trapped insects, while leaving nutrient-rich frass (insect poop) which is absorbed by the leaves of this plant!

The ways that plants actually capture their prey are pretty diverse: ranging from sticky substances that can immobilize prey, dark tubes and funnels that can trap and disorient them, and mechanical methods that can snap/ensnare or suction prey, dooming them to their fate. These mechanisms are defined as ‘active’ or ‘passive’ based on whether there is movement involved in the prey-capture process.

Evolution of Carnivory in Plants

Although we previously lacked a deeper understanding, advancements in molecular biology have allowed us to paint a more complete picture regarding how plants actually evolved this interesting adaptation.

Carnivory in plants is another classic example of convergent evolution (where unrelated species independently evolve similar traits), with instances of its occurrence over 12 different occasions across the evolutionary timescale of flowering plants (angiosperms). We currently estimate that carnivory is evident in over 800 species of plants across more than a dozen plant families.

All of these instances of carnivory were driven by similar needs: limited nutrient availability in the habitats in which these plants grow. These carnivorous plants grow in conditions which lack specific nutrients essential for plant growth (many of which include bodies of water or soils that are low in Nitrogen and Phosphorous). Arthropods such as insects can be excellent sources of these (and other) essential nutrients, and are often abundant in these habitats…all that plants needed to do was to come up with a way to tap into this great resource. They were able to accomplish this by repurposing existing genes to capture these six- and eight-legged snacks, and extract the nutrients found within them. Researchers who evaluated the digestive enzymes found in these plants noticed that there were quite a few similarities between these and defensive chemicals used by ancient flowering plants to protect themselves from pathogens and pests. Most carnivorous plants use similar enzymes including chitinases, proteases, and acid phosphatases (all of which have roles to play in the breakdown, dissolution, and absorption of nutrients from the corpses of their arthropod prey). In an interesting evolutionary twist, these chemicals were repurposed to eat some of the pests that they were originally protecting the plants from! How cool is that?!

If you want to learn more about the evolution of plant carnivory, I recommend reading the wonderful Smithsonian article linked in the resources below.

Carnivorous Plants and their Pollinators

With plants that have evolved to kill and consume arthropods, one can’t help but think about the pollinators that they depend on. How can plants attract both prey and pollinators? How do they go about selectively capturing the ones that they kill and extract nutrients from, while also protecting the ones that they rely on for pollination?

Insect and plant relationships can be multi-faceted, interesting, and extremely sophisticated (and plant/pollinator interactions are arguably some of the most interesting of these). Carnivorous plants have come up with ways to navigate this ‘pollinator-prey conflict’ utilizing a few main mechanisms. These include separation of the traps from the flowers, which is either done temporally or spatially. Some carnivorous plants will bloom before the traps have developed, allowing them to be successfully pollinated before they begin capturing prey, while other plants may physically separate the flowers from the traps themselves, often positioning flowers much higher than the traps which would be found closer to the ground (the method used by the Venus Fly Trap). They may also use different attractants (such as odors and colors) in their flowers and their traps to attract specific pollinators to flowers and only prey to traps; or they may use a combination of the aforementioned strategies.

Growing Carnivorous Plants

Although many carnivorous plants can have complex growing requirements that can make them difficult to grow in captivity, there are quite a few plants that are well-suited to this. Furthermore, we all know some very ingenious gardeners that can grow some of the trickiest plants with ease, laughing in the face of what others may consider ‘impossible’! My mother is a classic example of one of these gardening goddesses who manages to propagate and grow some of the most ‘difficult’ plants, often the ones that I have told her will probably not be successful. To those of you who are like my mother, I salute you. For the rest of us, I will focus on some carnivorous plants that are more user-friendly.

There are a variety of carnivorous plants that grow well indoors, and several available resources to help troubleshoot growing requirements (including a variety of websites and blogs that are dedicated to carnivorous plants, some of which I have included in the resources below). For beginner-friendly carnivorous plants, I would recommend starting with Venus fly traps and sundews. Often far less fussy than most, these are sometimes considered ‘gateway’ plants for those who might be starting out on their carnivorous plant journey. Tropical pitcher plants (Nepenthes spp.) are another popular houseplant choice, and these vining beauties can be attractive additions to your carnivorous collection.

There are also a few carnivorous plants that can grow well in outdoor gardens as long as the appropriate conditions are present. The purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea) is an example of a cold-hardy carnivorous plant that is especially suited to growing outdoors in North America (in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 3-8), but there are also other temperate species of carnivorous plants that grow well in outdoor gardens in other temperate regions, and tropical carnivorous plants that are better suited to growing in more tropical regions. The most common carnivorous plants grown in outdoor gardens include temperate pitcher plants (Sarracenia spp.), sundews, and the Venus fly trap. I encourage you to look into the carnivorous plants of your region to see what could possibly grow in your home gardens. Note: you should never remove native plants from their native landscapes, because this could damage some of the fragile ecosystems in which they reside. Instead, source suitable plants from reputable suppliers who grow and propagate them sustainably.

Like any plant growing recommendations, there is never a one-size-fits-all approach to caring for carnivorous plants, nor are there plants that work well in every single situation. One of the keys to growing carnivorous plants is to make sure that you are providing these plants the right kind of growing conditions for them to thrive, often mimicking the conditions in which they thrive in nature. Most of these carnivorous plants need bright light, and supplemental lighting may be necessary if you don’t have a suitable location with access to enough sunlight. They also need lots of mineral-free water (many use distilled water for this), and nutrient-poor soils. You can even purchase carnivorous plant-specific soil mixes to simplify this process. Humidity is another consideration, and humidifiers, misting, or using terraria that can maintain humid conditions may be necessary. These plants don’t need to be fertilized, and it is important not to overfeed them. Indoor plants can be fed one or two insects per month (don’t feed them meat), whereas outdoor plants will probably not need to be intentionally fed, (as they can often get their insect nutrient sources on their own), but make sure they are grown in a location that has access to insect prey.

(If you are a carnivorous plant caretaker, what are some of your favorites to grow?)

More Information:

Carnivorous Plants (Penn State University):
https://extension.psu.edu/carnivorous-plants

How Carnivorous Plants Evolved:
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/how-carnivorous-plants-evolved-180979697/

El-Sayed, A., Byers, J. & Suckling, D. Pollinator-prey conflicts in carnivorous plants: When flower and trap properties mean life or death. Sci Rep 6, 21065 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1038/srep21065

Some Resources for Growing Carnivorous Plants:

https://carnivorousplantnursery.com/blogs/cpn-blog

https://www.carnivorousplants.org

https://tomscarnivores.com/blog/start-here

I wanted to share a new study that came out this week in the journal Science. We generally agree how important bees, butterflies, and other pollinators are, not only for our crops but for the health of ecosystems as a whole. Yet, despite decades of awareness, pollinator numbers continue to decline worldwide. Dr. Gabriella Bishop used a meta-data approach in this study to examine why pollinators are struggling. The study concluded that current conservation targets for habitat area are simply not large enough.

The project combined datasets from 59 studies across 19 countries to measure how populations of wild bees, bumble bees, hoverflies, and butterflies respond to natural habitat around farms. I was fortunate to contribute some of my previously collected data on pollinator communities in the California Central Valley and be included as an author. Overall, by combining datasets, Dr. Bishop had information on 178,000 insects collected from 1,200 field sites, which allowed for the calculation of the minimum amount of habitat each group needs.

Many global and regional policies, like the EU Biodiversity Strategy, suggest setting aside about 10 percent of farmland as habitat for pollinators. But Dr. Bishop found that pollinators need far more space to thrive. The minimums vary group, with solitary bees needing ~16% in temperate areas and ~38% in the tropics. Butterflies needed ~37%. Hoverflies were more flexible, with the lowest threshold for habitat requirements at ~6%). Overall, this means hedgerows, woodlots, meadows, and wildflower-rich grasslands must make up a much larger share of the landscape if we want to halt pollinator declines. And critically, these areas need to be managed for the long haul. Short-term fixes such as seasonal wildflower strips can provide temporary boosts, but they do not sustain pollinator populations in the long run.

For gardeners and land stewards, the message is clear. Every patch of habitat counts, but scale does in fact matter. Planting flowers that bloom across the seasons is important, but so is maintaining semi-natural spaces for decades, not just years. If we want future generations to enjoy these insects, we must think BIGGER.

In my household, the weather is a common subject of conversation. That is only partly because I am married to a meteorologist. In fact, I have noticed that I can talk to almost anyone about the weather, and I suspect you can too. Weather is most captivating when something interesting is occurring, like liquid falling from the sky. When I give talks to master gardener groups, they are almost always consumed with how the weather is affecting their gardens. I get more questions about drought from these groups than almost any other topic, but rainfall, past or future, is also a frequent subject.

Today we will look at different types of precipitation, how they are formed, and how they affect garden plants. This is especially important as we move from summer, when rain is the most plentiful hydrometeor, into fall, when freezing rain, sleet, and snow become more frequent. Of course, this depends on where you are, and some Northern Hemisphere southern areas will experience almost no snow while for northern regions, it is the majority of what is observed.

What types of precipitation are there?

When I started writing my post, I looked online to see how many different types of precipitation were listed. I found that there is quite a variety in the number of types listed, ranging from two to seven varieties. I am going to lump them into two basic categories: liquid and frozen. But there are subcategories within these two basic buckets, especially in frozen precipitation, which includes snow, sleet, ice pellets or graupel, freezing rain, and hail. We will see how they are related to each other and yet distinct.

What is rain?

Rain is essentially liquid water that is falling from the sky and hitting the surface. If the air is dry enough, rain that develops in clouds evaporates before it gets to the ground, and that is called virga. Raindrops can form in tropical clouds through a liquid process that involves the collision and coalescence of small water droplets into larger drops that get heavy enough that they cannot remain suspended in the air and fall to the ground. But you might be surprised to know that most liquid rain starts as snow high up in the clouds, where the temperature higher up in the atmosphere is below freezing. We’ve addressed some characteristics of rain and how they affect gardens in previous posts here and here.

Clouds (except those in the deep tropics) are made up of a mix of supercooled water droplets and ice crystals that float around together, but it is easier for the ice crystals to grow by sucking up water vapor than for the water droplets to grow, so the ice crystals usually dominate the process of producing precipitation and snowflakes are the result. As these snowflakes fall towards the ground, they fall into warmer air near the surface and melt into the liquid water drops that make us wet. A light rain with small water droplets may be just a drizzle, but a thunderstorm with a cloud that is 10 miles deep could have water droplets as large as 0.34 inches, although I have heard unconfirmed stories about raindrops more than half an inch across in the heaviest rain events.

What types of frozen precipitation are there?

When precipitation freezes, it can take different forms depending on the temperature of the air that it falls through. If the air that the original snowflake falls through is below freezing through the entire depth of the atmosphere, then it remains as snow all the way to the ground. The shape of the snowflake depends on the combination of temperature and humidity that is present where the snowflake forms. They can take on an amazing variety of shapes beyond the typical dendrite that we usually associate with snow. The dendrites we often see falling in winter are ideal for blanketing the ground with a carpet of white, and their shapes make them able to trap a lot of air in the snow cover, providing insulation for the soil that keeps the temperature there relatively warm by protecting it from the cold and dry air the snow is falling through. In other words, it acts as a mulch to protect the ground and the plants there.

If the snowflakes from aloft fall through air that is above freezing, they transform from snowflakes to other kinds of precipitation, as shown in the diagram below. If the warm layer is deep, all of the snow changes back to liquid raindrops. If the air is above freezing but the surface is below freezing, then freezing rain occurs. The water sticks to trees, wires, and buildings, adding to their weight and collapsing them if the accumulations are thick enough. If the warm layer is relatively deep, but the air above the surface is below freezing, the water droplets may refreeze, leading to sleet or clear ice pellets. If the layer is thinner, the snowflakes may develop a coating of liquid water that surrounds the snow crystals from supercooled water in the clouds, encasing them in ice, leading to snow pellets or graupel, which are opaque instead of clear like sleet.

Hail is another variety of frozen precipitation that forms in summer thunderstorms, which can be as much as 10 miles high. In those storms, snowflakes can circulate vertically inside the storms due to strong updrafts, gathering a new coating of ice each time they move upward through the clouds, growing larger each time they cycle up and down. The largest hailstone ever measured was 8.0 inches in diameter and weighed 1.9375 pounds. It was discovered in Vivian, South Dakota on July 23, 2010. You will often find layers of clear and cloudy ice in hailstones as they travel up and down through the thunderstorms. Hail that is much smaller, as little as 0.25 inches, can cause damage to plants and crops as the hailstones shred leaves and cause damage to fruits and vegetables, leaving them unsightly and vulnerable to mold and pests.

How do different types of precipitation affect garden plants?

The most damaging types of precipitation for gardens are those that add weight to plants or cause impact damage when they hit something. Heavy snow and freezing rain can cause tree limbs to break due to increased weight, which trees cannot withstand, especially when they are still leaf-covered in fall or when they are not well maintained and have weak points in their structure. Garden plants can also be flattened or otherwise damaged by the heavy ice or snow cover. Previous advice in the Garden Professors by Linda indicates if the snow is really heavy, it should be removed from the plants before it can do damage, although lighter amounts can remain. On the other hand, snow cover on the ground can be a benefit to your garden if it incorporates enough air to serve as an insulating layer between the plants near the ground and the colder and drier air above it.

Hail, especially heavier stones, can cause significant damage to leaves and can defoliate gardens or farm fields completely in just a few minutes if the hail is intense enough. Even small hail can destroy tender plants, fruit, and flowers or at least damage the skin or leaves enough to decrease their value as crops due to cosmetic blemishes and places where diseases or insects can enter the plants. Gardens should be assessed for hail damage soon after a storm occurs, since the damage can be harder to spot over time.

How else can precipitation help gardeners with their gardens?

A previous post on GP noted that observing your garden after a heavy rain can be helpful in determining what the drainage patterns are and what might need to be addressed. While you might not be able to do much work in your garden right after a heavy rain event, it provides an excellent time to make future plans to make your garden more weather-proof.

Rain and snow, along with the other varieties of precipitation we experience, provide valuable moisture to our gardens as well as protection to plants in winter, but can also produce damage that can harm our garden plants. Enjoy the rain (or snow) when it comes, but be aware of the negative impacts it can have on your garden, too.

I thought it would be fun to periodically highlight some insects that are understudied or lesser-known. Today’s insect spotlight is on the marigold fruit fly, Trupanea vicina. If you grow marigolds in your garden, you might find this fruit fly or it’s larvae in your flowers. One of its most striking features is the bold, patterned wings that is has, I think the venation  almost resembles shattered glass. This is a fly in the tephritid fruit fly family, a large group of flies that often specialize on flowers and seeds. There are over 4,000 species in this family of fruit flies and there are likely many more undiscovered ones. Flies in this group might be confused with kitchen fruit flies, which belong to Drosophilidae family and are usually quite small. Tephritids are larger and often have striking wing patterns which are used during courtship or to ward off predators. The group includes important agricultural pests such as Mexican fruit flies olive fruit fly.

Marigold fruit fly adults are about 4–5 mm long with banded or spotted wings. Research suggests that T. vicina primarily develops in marigolds, where the larvae feed inside flower heads (Foote et al. 1993). We don’t know to what extent it will use other host species of asters, though tephritids tend to be specialized with very close relationships to their preferred host plant.  So far the species has been observed in California, Arizona, Mexico, and other parts of Central America, though its full distribution has not been systematically mapped, and I would be curious to know if you’ve seen it in any other region.

There’s a lot we don’t know about the fruit fly. While this is a pest of low concern, it’s unclear how much damage it causes to marigolds. The larvae do consume developing seeds, but we are unsure if this always reduces the quality of flower or only in cases of extreme infestation. This is the first year that I am getting reports of marigold fruit fly being an issue in home gardens in Southern California. Have you experienced it before?

References

Foote, R. H., F. L. Blanc, and A. L. Norrbom. 1993. Handbook of the Fruit Flies (Diptera: Tephritidae) of America North of Mexico. Cornell University Press, Ithaca, NY.

The cooler weather that many parts of the eastern United States are experiencing this week is causing many gardeners to think about what this fall will be like. In fact, many farmers in Georgia are already planting fall crops, and I am sure that many gardeners are also busy with their own fall planting if they live in the Northern Hemisphere mid-latitudes. In this blog post we will discuss seasonal forecasts and how you can use them to plan and plant your garden.

What kinds of long-range forecasts are available?

In weather and climate, there are two basic types of forecasts. The first is a deterministic forecast, which gives an outlook that describes the specific weather that is expected to occur at a discrete time in the future. Deterministic forecasts are commonly used for weather forecasts for the next few days and are based on computer model predictions that are grounded in the physical equations of motion, thermodynamics and other properties of the atmosphere. Generally, deterministic forecasts are most useful within a few days after the forecast is made. As you go farther out in time, they become less accurate due to lack of updated weather observations and drifts in the models due to the chaotic nature of the atmosphere. In general, a deterministic forecast is not very accurate more than a week ahead of when it is made. They are better than they used to be, and the accuracy of a 7-day forecast now is as good as a 5-day forecast was a couple of decades ago, but we will likely never have a perfect deterministic forecast more than ten days out.

Longer-term forecasts are usually given as probabilistic forecasts. In other words, the forecast will give a likelihood of occurrence of general weather conditions such as wetter or drier and colder or warmer than normal. For meteorologists, “normal” is a 30-year average of temperature and precipitation at a location and is currently based on the 1991-2020 period (they are updated every ten years due to the amount of work it takes to produce a clean dataset). Most probabilistic forecasts are based on multiple model results that start from slightly different conditions and are built with different methods of creating rain and clouds, moving temperature and humidity around, and start with different surface conditions. The more the models agree, the higher the probability of occurrence of a particular type of weather.

How to interpret the NOAA monthly and season forecast maps

In the NOAA map for September 2025 above, for example, there is a dark brown area centered on the Great Salt Lake in the western United States. This is an area that has a strong probability of being drier than normal in the month of September based on the available model output. The fact that it is dark brown does not mean it will necessarily be much drier than normal, but that we have a strong likelihood that it will in the lowest third of years in terms of how many inches of precipitation it is likely to experience. These forecasts start from even odds of having near normal precipitation (34%), above normal precipitation (33%) and below normal precipitation (33%). If the climate forecast models indicate mostly dry conditions at a point, then the percentages shift to something more like 34% near normal, 50% below normal, and 16% above normal precipitation. Because there is so much uncertainty in the atmosphere, you never know with total accuracy which category the season will fall into, you just have some confidence of which way it is likely to fall. Since this is the average for an entire month or season, there can be periods within that time span that are significantly different weather that what the probabilities suggest are the most likely to occur. Here is a list of what the seasonal forecast maps do NOT tell us.

Deterministic versus probabilistic forecasts

If you are planning an outdoor event like a garden wedding months ahead, a deterministic forecast is what you would probably want to know. Do we need to rent a tent? Should we expect hot or cold weather when we purchase a dress? Unfortunately, this is not possible a long time ahead and so you need to use previous or average weather conditions on that date to decide what kind of weather is most likely to occur and be aware that you could be wrong. There are a few commercial forecasting sites that provide specific deterministic forecasts up to 90 days ahead. I asked a friend who works for one of these companies why they do it when research shows that there is no skill involved, and he told me they do it for “entertainment value.” In other words, it is not real information, it is just click-bait. The same thing happens with wild hurricane forecasts on social media that show a single deterministic forecast of a huge storm hitting somewhere like Tampa, conveniently not showing the 99 models with no such storm present. Don’t believe them, they are harvesting clicks, not providing useful information.

The Farmers’ Almanac and the Old Farmer’s Almanac

Every year, including this one, publishers release almanacs each fall which claim to show what the weather will be like for 1 to 3-day periods for the winter and next year. Their winter outlook maps get a lot of press about what to expect weatherwise for the next few months (I won’t post any links in this post but you can search online if you are really curious). If you read them carefully, you can see they are quasi-deterministic since they reference storms or heat waves occurring at specific areas over just a few days, although they are usually written in broad enough language that they can be interpreted in several ways. Many people use these for planning their gardens, and they do contain useful information about climatological conditions, average frost dates, and sunrise and sunset information. But scientists have shown that they are only about 50% accurate, which amounts to pure chance. They base their forecasts on secret formulas that cannot be scientifically studied or verified so we have no way to know what they are really using to determine what those forecasts will be. So if you buy one this year, I challenge you to keep track of what they forecast and what weather actually occurred at your house and see if they did any better than chance in 2026. Let the buyer beware and use them for “entertainment value” only.

What can we expect this fall?

Based on NOAA’s probabilistic forecast, we can expect the temperature across most of the United States to be warmer than normal, with some areas more likely to be warm than others. This is likely due to the continuing greenhouse warming that is occurring, making every year (on average) warmer than the previous one, although there is a lot of variation within that trend from one year to the next. Precipitation in the Southeast for the September through November period is leaning towards wetter than normal conditions, and that is probably related mostly to the second half of the Atlantic hurricane season, which could bring heavy rain to parts of the Southeast during fall even though parts of it will certainly be missed. The southwestern United States centered on the Four Corners area is expected to be drier than normal in an area that is already quite dry climatologically.

For the December through February period, the forecast is showing a pattern of climate conditions that is consistent with the La Nina that is expected to occur as we head into winter, with warmer and drier conditions in the southern US and wetter and cooler conditions in the northern US. If you live in a different part of the world, you can find images of the expected La Nina conditions here. Choose plants according to the climate conditions you expect and be prepared to manage them for those conditions, so that if you are in the South, you may have to water more frequently because of the drier than average conditions.

Seasonal outlook maps can provide clues to the kind of temperature and rainfall conditions you are likely to experience in your neighborhood over 3-month periods, although they will not give you specific details about when the first frost might occur or how many heavy rain events you can expect to see. But knowledge of the likely pattern of conditions you can expect will allow you to plan what kind of plants to put in the ground and how you are likely to have to take care of them as they grow.

Just an additional note: If you like to track the fall colors, check out this interactive fall foliage map at https://www.explorefall.com/, now including Alaska. It’s a great resource for planning weekend trips to areas you think will be experiencing beautiful fall foliage.

by Hamutahl Cohen

You’ve probably seen Neem oil recommended in blogs, gardening forums, and on the shelf at your local gardening store. Neem is derived from the seeds of the Azadirachta indica tree, and is one type of horticultural oil that is used by gardeners looking for alternatives to synthetic insecticides. But is it effective? Is it benign? This post explores the pros and cons behind neem and other horticultural oils.

What Are Horticultural Oils?

Horticultural oils are either plant-based (like neem, canola, or clove oil) or mineral-based (refined petroleum products), and they work mostly by smothering soft-bodied pests like aphids, scale, and whiteflies.

Some plant-based oils do contain chemical compounds that can do more than smoother —neem oil contains azadirachtin, which disrupts insect development and feeding behavior.

Horticultural oils are typically considered low-toxicity for humans, and can be used on a very wide range of plants, including vegetables, fruits, ornamentals, and houseplants.

The PROS

1. Broad-Spectrum Neem oil is effective against a range of insect pests and some fungal diseases, yet remains relatively safe for humans, pets, and other animals. According to the Environmental Protection Agency neem oil “has been shown to have minimal impact on non-target organisms” (EPA, 2012) such as birds and mammals.
2. Reduced Resistance Potential
   Unlike synthetic insecticides that often target a specific physiological pathway (and thus promote resistance over time), neem oil affects multiple aspects of insect development, which makes resistance less likely to develop quickly.
3. Organic-compatible and easy-to-apply
   Neem and other horticultural oils are generally approved for organic gardening. interventions. They are easy for home gardeners to use since you can spray from a store-bought bottle and avoid any special equipment.
4. Low Residual Activity
   These oils break down quickly in sunlight and soil, reducing long-term environmental contamination and residue on edible crops.

The Cons

1. Phytotoxicity Risk
   If you use oils in high temperature or direct sunlight, it can lead to leaf burn and plant damage. Apply it early in the morning or late in the day to minimize this risk.
2. Non-Selective Action
   Neem and other oils can still harm beneficial insects if sprayed directly. Lady beetles, lacewings, and bees can be affected by fresh residues. You can time your application to avoid flowering periods, or spray during the evening when bees are less active to avoid non-target impacts.
3. Repeat applications sometimes required
   The effects of oils can take days to manifest and may require repeated applications (e.g. every 10 days) for best results. Gardeners expecting immediate eradication may be disappointed. Oils often work best in conjuction with other control strategies (e.g. pruning out infested areas, releasing beneficials, etc.)
4. Storage and Shelf Life
   Oils can degrade over time, especially when exposed to light and heat. They can go rancid or lose efficaciousness. Check the expiration date on your bottle and store in a cool, dark place.

Concluding Thoughts

I like horticultural oils. They can be effective tools and are safe for people to use. But they need to be used with some consideration, particularly timing to avoid non-target impacts to beneficial insects and leaf burn. Let me know your experience with oils.

References

EPA. (2012). Neem Oil; Exemption from the Requirement of a Tolerance. Federal Register. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2012/05/31/2012-13143/neem-oil-exemption-from-the-requirement-of-a-tolerance

Have you ever stopped while you were gardening to look at the clouds? Clouds, like flowers, come in a variety of shapes and sizes that can form beautiful patterns in the sky. But clouds are not just pretty, they can also be used to make predictions about the weather in the coming days. In this week’s post, we will look at the different types of clouds and how they relate to coming weather. You can use that to prepare for your garden work by knowing when it will be sunny and predicting when rain is coming.

How are clouds classified?

Clouds were first classified by Luke Howard in 1803 in his “Essay of the Modifications of Clouds”. Howard classified the clouds by their shape, using Latin names for wisps (cirrus), lumps (cumulus), or sheets (stratus) to describe how they looked in the sky. Clouds that are precipitating either rain or snow are called nimbus clouds. Some clouds are a combination of types, such as stratocumulus clouds, which look like a layer of lumpy clouds, or cumulonimbus clouds, which are the tall thunderstorms that form in summer. You can find a great gallery of cloud photos at the Cloud Appreciation Society. Wikipedia has an exhaustive list of cloud types online as well.

Clouds are also classified by heights. Most clouds form in a single layer of the atmosphere, but you can often see multiple layers of clouds when you look at the sky. These layers may be caused by different mechanisms. The shape and height of the clouds provide clues to what is going on in the atmosphere and are especially related to the presence (and sometimes absence) of warm and cold fronts that are harbingers of precipitation and a change in wind and temperature conditions.

To estimate how high the clouds are, you can use a literal “rule of thumb” that works well for cumulus-type clouds. Hold your hand out towards a cloud. If the individual cloud is the size of your fist, then it is probably a low cloud. If the lump of cloud is the size of your thumb, then it is probably a mid-level cloud. And if it is the size of your little pinky joint, then it is probably a high cloud. Note that the clouds are the same size, but the difference in height makes them look like they are different sizes.

For stratus clouds, you can estimate the height by how transparent it is. A cloud layer that allows you to clearly see where the sun or moon is located is probably a high cloud. A layer that lets you see where the sun is but shows it with blurry edges (we sometimes call this a “ground glass” appearance), then it is probably a mid-level cloud. If it is so thick that you cannot see where the sun or moon is, then it is probably a low-level cloud. But please be careful not to look directly at the sun, since it can damage your eyes!

How do clouds form?

Clouds form where moist air cools off to the point that the water vapor condenses into small drops that become visible to us. Since the atmosphere generally cools off as you go up, the clouds form where the air is rising. The rising motion can be provided by heating from the earth’s surface, lifting of the air by a mountain, or large-scale upward motion caused by warm and cold fronts, where masses of air at different temperatures interact to create areas of rising air. The highest clouds usually form in the coldest air and form as ice crystals, leading to their wispy appearance. Lower clouds appear in warmer air where the water condenses as liquid droplets, leading to their more robust appearance.

How are cloud shapes related to atmospheric winds and structure?

The most interesting weather (at least to me, as a meteorologist) is where there are differences between masses of air at the surface and above the surface that are interacting. Boundaries between these air masses are called “fronts” and are named because they act like battle fronts between enemy armies. In a cold front (left side of diagram above), cold dense air near the surface pushes beneath a layer of warm, humid air, causing it to rise and cool. Clouds ahead of cold fronts tend to be relatively tall and energetic and form cumulonimbus clouds that can drop a lot of rain in a short time but generally tend to move through an area quickly unless the front stalls due to other atmospheric dynamics.

Warm fronts are large masses of warm, humid air that are pushing over the top of a layer of colder, more dense air (right side of diagram above). As the warm air rises, it slowly forms clouds as the layer cools to the temperature of condensation. Since the entire layer is rising, the clouds that form are often sheets of clouds rather than individual clouds. The higher clouds indicate that the moisture from an approaching warm front is present high in the atmosphere and shows that a warm front is likely to be approaching, signaling a change in the weather from cool to warmer conditions that could also drop rain as the warm front gets closer to your location. As the warm front gets closer, you should see the high clouds replaced by mid-level clouds like altostratus and then lower clouds like stratus clouds and nimbus clouds if they start producing rain. This usually happens over a day or two depending on the speed and strength of the surface warm front.

If you see lumpy cloud forms, then they are most likely related to the rising motion of air due to columns of warm air rising from the surface (“thermals”). Air between the columns is sinking, which leaves clear spots between the clouds. Fair-weather cumulus clouds are the tops of these thermals, when the rising air cools down enough for the water vapor in the column to condense, forming the cloud. These types of clouds usually form when the ground is heated, most often by sunlight during the day but sometimes by pavement or wildfire as well as mountainous areas. They usually form on days when you are in a mass of warm, humid air that is far from a frontal boundary, although if they grow taller, then a cold front is likely to be approaching.

If the air is very hot and humid and the surrounding air is cooler than the rising column, then the clouds can grow vertically to great heights before they hit a layer that is warmer than the rising air and stop growing. These tall clouds are called cumulonimbus clouds because they often drop heavy rain as they develop. These often form along and ahead of cold fronts and indicate that the wind is likely to shift from a south wind to a colder wind coming from the northwest (in the Northern Hemisphere). In the worst cases, the rain can cause erosion or damage to fragile plants when it is very intense. Plants that live in rainy areas evolve to have such things as pointed tips or shiny leaf surfaces that shed the water quickly. Cumulonimbus clouds are also sometimes associated with high winds, hail, and tornadoes, all of which can damage garden plants and trees as well as harm humans and animals.

How can you predict the weather by watching the clouds?

As you work in your garden, take a look at the clouds above you. If they are high and wispy, then moisture high in the atmosphere may indicate that a warm front and a chance of rain is likely in a couple of days, especially if they get lower and denser over time. The picture of daisies at the beginning of this post shows high, wispy clouds that could indicate a warm front is approaching. The glowing ring of light that appears in cirrostratus clouds in the picture just above this paragraph may also be a sign that there is moisture on the way, leading to the saying that “a ring around the moon means rain in 48 hours”.

The chance of rain may affect your plans to spray your gardens or lawns for pests or fungal diseases, since many garden treatments have weather-related requirements for when to use them. Some work better when applied to wet leaves after rain falls, but others need a period of dry weather for the chemicals to be most effective. Make sure you read the labels to know what kind of weather they need. It may also tell you that it would be a good idea to mow the grass before it rains in the next 24-48 hours.

If you are already in hot and humid conditions and you see cumulus clouds getting taller and more numerous over time, a cold front may be approaching. This could indicate a period of strong winds, heavy rain, some possible lightning, and sharply cooler temperatures which could be either a curse or a blessing depending on just how hot it has been. The very shallow clouds in the picture above (cumulus humilis) are most likely seen after the cold front has passed and there is minimal lifting to cause clouds to form.

Don’t forget to look up

A good gardener should always be keeping an eye on their garden but should also be watching the environment around it to see how the conditions might be changing in the future. Who knows what delights you will see if you just look around you? But don’t forget to look up, too, because the sky is full of wonders and can inform you about the future as well as strike you with awe.

If you’ve been paying attention to the weather across the United States this past week, you may have noticed that most of the eastern U. S. is experiencing extremely hot temperatures, especially when you factor in the effects of humidity. At the same time, in the western U. S., it has been snowing in the mountains, even though it is almost July! In this week’s blog post we will look at why this pattern of hot and cold conditions occurs so often and what is causing it.

Heat in the East

We have talked about persistent areas of very high temperatures several times in past blog posts (for example, here and here). Those areas most commonly form in summer under stagnant areas of high pressure that have sinking motion in the middle of the high. The sinking motion of the air keeps clouds and rain from developing, leading to very hot and dry air being trapped near the earth’s surface, raising temperatures and reducing wind speeds. Often those areas also include a lot of humidity, which makes the temperatures more oppressive because sweating does not cool you off efficiently if the humidity is high, especially if winds are also light.

When this happens, the National Weather Service will put out heat advisories or other statements reminding people to be careful to keep cool and stay out of the hot sun as a way to prevent heat-related illnesses like heat stroke. This is also important for gardeners, who like to spend time outside tending their plants and gardens. You can monitor the atmospheric conditions associated with heat to identify times when it would be better to stay inside where it is cool by using the National Weather Service’s HeatRisk map or the Southeast Regional Climate Center’s Wet Bulb Globe Temperature forecast tool (which is for the entire country, not just the Southeast).

Note that heat domes don’t always occur in eastern parts of the country. A deadly heat dome occurred in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) in late June 2021, breaking numerous high temperature records and killing 136 people in Washington alone in the period from June 26 through July 6, 2021. In that case it was the West that was under unusually high temperatures while the Eastern U. S. was cooler than usual. They also occur in other parts of the world, and in fact this week Europe is also experiencing very high temperatures due to another region of high pressure parked over them.

It is also interesting to note that in winter, areas of high pressure are often the coldest areas of the country due to the lack of cloud cover, which allows heat from the earth to escape to space, leaving colder conditions at the surface at night when no sun is there to heat the ground.

Cold and snow in the West

On the other end of the country, cold air was trapped on the other side of the frontal boundary between the eastern high-pressure center and the low-pressure trough that was present in the western U. S. The cold air was so intense, especially at higher elevations, that snow fell in some mountainous areas of western Montana and surrounding states. The Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park had to be closed from June 20 to June 23 due to the heavy snow.

What connects these two extremes together?

The common connection between the heat in the East and the snow in the West is the large-scale atmospheric wave that is linked to both the low pressure in the west and the high pressure in the East. The atmosphere is a fluid and is constantly adjusting its pressure fields by forming waves with ridges of high pressure as well as troughs of low pressure. Sometimes these patterns get locked in place for a few days (or even longer in rare cases), which leads to more extreme effects, but they usually move on in a few days, causing the weather to go back to normal conditions or even flip-flopping to the opposite pattern. In fact, we discussed atmospheric waves back in July 2021 following the PNW extreme heat event in this blog.

The surface weather associated with these areas of high and low pressure are what cause the big changes in observed conditions that gardeners and farmers have to deal with since they can have big impacts on flowers and crops. The atmospheric wave pattern can lock in place for a number of reasons including conditions in other parts of the earth such as unusually cold or warm water in the ocean or droughts or floods in other areas. Fortunately, these stationary patterns usually shift or break down after a few days, leading to big changes in local weather conditions that might be more welcome.

How do cold and hot outbreaks affect gardens?

Most garden plants are fairly resilient to the changes in temperature, humidity, winds, and cloudiness that come with the shifts in the atmospheric waves and their associated surface weather. Plants respond differently to heat than humans and other animals do because they don’t sweat. High heat can cause the plants to close the stoma in their leaves to retain moisture, but a long enough period of high temperatures and dry conditions with little soil moisture leads to wilting and eventually, death of the plants. Of course, most gardeners are watering their gardens to avoid this worst case!

Cold spells in summer do not cause as much damage as frost and snow in spring and fall because they just don’t get cold enough to damage the plants (unless you are in the mountains and the temperatures drop below freezing), but they can slow the plants’ growth and reduce their flower or fruit production. Food crops that depend on a significant number of growing degree days (a measure of the accumulation of heat over time based on daily temperatures) will grow more slowly, resulting in late harvest of whatever crop is being grown. In the worst cases, it could delay harvest so late in fall that fall frosts become a consideration, but most home gardeners do not need to worry about this as much as commercial farmers because they are not farming hundreds of acres of crops, just their own patch of land.

I encourage you to visit some of the links in the article above to learn more about heat domes and atmospheric waves as well as their impact on your garden plants. You can also use the search field to find additional sources of information about any topic of gardening that you might want to learn more about, especially one that relates to the science of gardening. It’s a great resource!