I nearly caused a wreck trying to get this photo.
Feb. 19, 2014. Blacksburg, Virginia
Must be a gardener!
If you’ve been following us for a while, you might remember a post from August 2009 when I got cranky about a pot of lavenders with horrendous root systems. I intervened with my Felcos and planted out the patients, hoping for the best.
Lavender #2 before root pruning
In July of 2010, I gave an update on their progress. At that point, one of the lavenders had died but the other four were perking along. And now it’s time to show them in their floral glory:
Root washing is still controversial, as is corrective root pruning. However, all five of these plants would have died had I not corrected the spiraling root systems. Published and ongoing research at several places around the country continues to support the practice of bare-rooting and correcting root flaws of woody plants.
Is this a practice that the landscape industry will adopt? Probably not on a large scale: it is time intensive and requires careful work. But home gardeners can do this themselves and have done so successfully.
If you’re interested in more information on how to do this, you can download this fact sheet. Until production nurseries change their practices to avoid these fatal root flaws, it will be up to home gardeners and a handful of landscapers to repair the damage.
What a crazy spring! But it finally, finally came here to the Blue Ridge Mountains (Linda Chalker-Scott refers to them “speed bumps”).
My Ornamental Plants Production & Marketing class has been at work since early February, growing plants and marketing them at the Hort Club Plant Sale as part of their lab experience. Of course, they are completely at my mercy as to what they get to grow (bwuhh ha ha *evil hand wringing*). And due to their professor being a complete plant dork, they wouldn’t know a potted mum if it hit them upside the head. Not that there’s anything wrong with mums. But with so much fabulous stuff to choose from – they can just look that mum crop protocol up in a book if the need arises. They do get to experience a few zonal geraniums, but that’s only because the University’s past-President buys 50 red ones from us every year.
So what do they grow? Fabulous goodies you could never, ever find at a garden center in SW Virginia. Variegated Manihot esculenta. Dr. Cho’s newest Colocasia ‘Black Coral’ (gloss black with deep blue veins). Awesome landscape begonias such as ‘Gryphon’ and ‘Santa Cruz Sunset’. Fun annuals like Torenia and Osteospermum. Fifty-two different things – fairly ambitious, considering there are only 11 students. We fill a 40′ x 80′ house plus two “research” greenhouse sections that I commandeer the moment they come available.
My production students always start out the semester rather tentative, and then get more engaged as time goes on. We do a 2.5 day field trip across the state to visit top greenhouses, nurseries, and garden centers in early April. My gang comes home with a real appreciation of the hard work and long hours required to be successful; more important, perhaps, is their exposure to the tremendous passion and enthusiasm of the people in the business, many of who are alumni of our department.
SO…thirteen weeks later, we have greenhouses crammed full of really great plants,a bunch more ordered in from top area nurseries, an enthusiastic mob of customers with pent-up plant lust, and some very proud students.
And that’s the best part – the students get to/have to work with (gasp) the PUBLIC. Very disconcerting for some of them. The Plant Sale Chair for the club, who is also in my class, is a terrific student but a bit shy. Of course, he got the loudest customer of the day. She hollered “Hey, boo boo! Tell me about this plant! Sez here you grew it!” Ten shades of red later… I thought he was going to faint. But he did regain his composure and helped her with some other things. He also made me promise to never, ever tell his classmates what she called him.
But you’re not in my class 😉
Here comes “boo boo” with his very nice Cissus discolor (Rex Begonia Vine).
Names withheld to protect the totally embarrassed.
As you may know, I spent most of the last week in Charlotte, NC. On my last night, I got to visit uptown and enjoy the pocket parks along Tryon Street. Here’s one of them at the intersection of Tryon and Trade:
It has a lovely water feature – it was a warm day and the breeze from the fountain cooled the air off significantly.
A little further on was this plaza, featuring jasmine-covered “umbrellas”:
The umbrellas were actually sculptures – little works of art on their own:
The nicest things about the uptown area were the wide streets and equally wide sidewalks. Lots of light could get through these urban corridors, supporting a canopy of willow oaks:
This is an urban area that not only invites pedestrians, but treats them to a botanical experience that unfortunately isn’t common in our cities. Hopefully this is the future of urban greenspaces…and not just a delightful anomaly.
What a difference a year makes. This time last year our growing degree day accumulations were nearly a month ahead of normal and we had already experienced temperatures in the 80’s, with more than a week straight of 70 + deg. temperatures. This year, of course, is a different story. But spring will come eventually. As trees and shrubs begin to leaf out or we get antsy and begin to plant annuals, we need to be prepared for late frosts.
Searching on the internet for ‘plant frost protection’ will yield a wide array of strategies for reducing frost damage. Some strategies such as frost irrigation or wind turbines are mainly geared to commercial horticultural operations such as orchards or nurseries. Other techniques such as a various spray-on products usually provide only a few degrees of protection or are variable in their effectiveness. For homeowners, the most effective technique is the ‘old tried and true’; covering plants loosely with a bed sheet or similar lightweight fabric.
When covering plants for frost protection it is important to remember the basic principle at work here. Late frosts typically occur on clear nights. That’s because the lack of cloud cover allows heat from the earth to re-radiate into outer space. By draping a sheet or other lightweight covering over plants, the radiant heat from the ground is trapped, preventing plants from freezing.
I bring this up because I have seen several forms of ‘plant protection bags’ currently on the market. In terms of protection from late frosts, these are more likely to turn out to be plant body bags. Some of these bags are designed to gather at the base; sort of like putting on a coat. This is another example where making analogies between human function and plant function falls apart.
Remember, the point of covering plants is to trap the earth’s heat, not the plant’s heat.
More importantly, frost cover protection needs to be removed each morning as soon as temperatures begin to warm. Late frosts usually occur on clear nights, which means the next morning is typically bright and sunny. Under direct sun, temperatures under frost covers can build quickly, resulting in heat damage to new growth. Yes, going out to drape sheets over plants each evening and then removing them the next morning is a pain but like so many things in life, the tried and true is the safest bet.
As Garden Professors, we are very careful regarding product endorsements. Actually, much energy is spent trying to bring to light weird/crappy/useless/money-wasting gardening products.
But when we feel strongly about the usefulness, quality, and utility of a product, it is our duty to pass that information along as well.
I didn’t mean to be a walking advertisement last weekend.
We were in the final throes of getting our garden cut back; Joel was laughing that I “needed another set of hands” when I came around the corner. “Not with my fabulous Firehose Work Pants from Duluth Trading Company, I don’t!” Thus the inspiration for this post.
All products noted are, variously: warm, waterproof, full of pockets, sharp, indestructible, dependable, and/or delicious.
I’ve gotten better, actually. After slaying hundreds of dollars worth of mail-order and/or inappropriate plants, I’ve learned to curb my urges a bit.
But not this time.
I was overcome by a sale at “Annies Annuals and Perennials” – the most decadent, irresistible, West Coast, Zone 9 catalog ever.
Behold! The impossible-to-grow and majestic Puya*
Mine! Mine! Mine!
It will reside in my greenhouse over the winter.
Packing peanut left in pot for scale.
Now taking bets as to how many years ’till bloom. Side action on years/months until I kill it.
*Can one of you familiar with the genus inform me as to pronunciation? I’m pretty sure my current “rhymes with booyah” isn’t it.
There’s a new report out from the Weed Science Society of America (WSSA) which blasts a common piece of gardening advice: use least toxic pesticides only as a last resort. Popular as it may be, this advice is not scientifically grounded and can actually cause more harm than good. The WSSA is joined in this announcement by the American Phytopathological Society (APS) and the Plant-Insect Ecosystems Section of the Entomological Society of
America (P-IE ESA).
This is a must-read for anyone who is a responsible educator regarding pesticide use, which includes Master Gardeners and other horticulture paraprofessionals. You’ll want to use the webpage link above to read the entire announcement, but here’s a paragraph to get you thinking:
“There is no benefit or scientific basis to simplistic messages like “use least toxic pesticides as a last resort” for the large number of pesticide users who apply pesticides according to the label and practice good stewardship. Nor are these messages beneficial for those who neither seek training nor adequately read the label believing instead that it is safe, practical, and effective to simply choose a product considered a “least toxic pesticide” and apply it only as a “last resort.” These messages hinder pesticide safety and stewardship education and practices that are in the best interest of the pesticide user, our food supply, public health and ecosystem preservation.”
I’ve written about ornamental grasses previously – they really are one of the toughest, most useful yet under-appreciated groups of garden plants. Most provide at least three seasons of interest, but fall is when they really shake their pom-poms.
On a recent conference trip to western Michigan with pal and plantsman Paul Westervelt, we stopped by the trials at Walter’s Gardens of Zeeland – one of the largest perennial propagators (wholesale) in the country.
It was a beautiful, breezy day in their extensive gardens, and the grasses were positively alive with light and motion (and kittens – seven or eight, I think). What a fantastic afternoon.
Here are a few recent introductions that knocked our socks off. All are hardy to at least USDA Zone 5, heat tolerant to Zone 8 or 9, and the non-natives have been screened for any invasive tendencies. All are patented.
Panicum virgatum ‘Dust Devil’
There are many great cultivars of our native switchgrass out there; but few come in under 6’ or 7’ – problematic for the small garden. Dust Devil is comparatively petite – 3 to 4 feet tall, blue-green foliage, and resists the rain beat-down that often happens to the rangy cultivars. Selected by Michigander Gary Trucks.
Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Burgundy Bunny’
Paul and I were especially impressed by this sport of ‘Little Bunny’. I’ve grown tons of ‘Little Bunny’ which is eminently useful for a pouf of “grassiness” at the front of the border. ‘Burgundy Bunny’ brings terrific color that only gets better in the fall, in the same small package. From Walla Walla Nursery and introduced by Plant Haven.
Paul models Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Red Head’
Nothing petite about this monster Fountain Grass. Wow. 5’ tall and as wide, with gigantic foxtail plumes. As with most Pennisetum species, the show starts mid-summer and continues through fall. Selected by the perennially prolific Brent Horvath of Intrinsic Perennials.
Schizycharium scoparium Blue Heaven™ (‘MinnBlueA’)
Selected by grass maven Dr. Mary Meyer from her trials at the University of Minnesota. Mary has found a nice Little Bluestem that has outstanding foliage color (gets even better as the season progresses) and a very upright habit that fights the flop. Native across much of North America and perfect for awful sites, Little Bluestem laughs at clay, heat, and drought, once established.
Andropogon gerardii ‘Indian Warrior’
Little Bluestem’s big brother of the tall grass prairie. Another upright flop-fighter, this Big Bluestem is from Brent Horvath/Intrinsic. I’ve enjoyed Andropogon in my garden (got it from Paul) – the colors are amazing- but by summer’s end, they’ve flopped all over their neighbors. Can’t wait to give ‘Indian Warrior’ a try.
Lots more info on these and other grasses and perennials at Walters Gardens’ consumer portal www.perennialresource.com
Kittens in the grasses. Ahn.
Finally: when in Grand Rapids, stop by HopCat for a tremendous selection of Michigan craft beers and hard ciders and the suitably-name Crack Fries (yes!!!).
Tradescantia? Sick of Stachys? Exhausted from Echinacea?
Stick THIS in your border!
Dracunculus vulgaris at the Hahn Horticulture Garden, Virginia Tech. Hardy to USDA Zone 5b.
Closely related (as one might imagine) to
Amorphophallus. Lovely silver-splashed foliage, velvety crimson spathe, and big honkin’ spadix in early summer.
Easy to grow; part shade and good drainage seem to work well. After a few years, you’ll have several offsets to share with your dearest friends/worst enemies.
At the peak of bloom, the fragrance is reminiscent of lily or tuberose (if they were arranged on a patty of rotting hamburger).
Garden Interns Brittaney and Anna think it’s JUST FABULOUS!
Available from that purveyor of all plants phallic,
(They have lots of other stuff, too.)